Here we go again - cut and paste! Good job I saved it! This question has been asked and answered many times on this forum---
Headlight removal---
Tools required -
T30 Torx bit and miniature ratchet or T-bar, or a T30 'L' shaped key (the type that looks like an Allen key). Long-nose pliers.
Lift the bonnet and unclip the two front grille top catches. Lift the grill vertically upwards to pull out the five plastic tabs holding the grill into the top surface of the front bumper.
With the grill removed, you can see that the top of the front bumper is held by three wide plastic clips. Lift these clips and pull the bumper forward - it's flexible enough to move forward just far enough to allow a bit more room to get at the bottom fixing screw for each headlamp unit, and for the headlamp units to be be pulled forward and out.
The three headlamp fixing screws on each side have a T30 Torx star and a groove for a flat-bladed screwdriver. Remove the bottom screw (which is obscured by the front bumper) using an 'L' shaped T30 Torx key or a T30 bit in a miniature ratchet handle. Remove the other two with either the same tool or a big, flat-bladed screwdriver.
Pull the headlamp unit forward out of it's catch on the inner-wing, then unclip the wiring plug off the back.
With the unit out, remove the circular rubber cover to expose the H4 Halogen bulb.
Pull the three-pin plug off the bulb.
Unclip the wire hold-down spring. If you can do this with your fingers I will worship you as a God. I have to use long-nose pliers.
Take out the blown bulb and replace with a good one. DO NOT TOUCH the quartz 'glass' envelope of the new bulb! Any contamination will cause the envelope to shatter when hot!
Push the hold-down clip back onto the bulb and ensure that it's clipped firmly in place. (you can do this with your fingers).
Push the three-pin plug back on.
Replace the rubber cover.
Offer the unit up to the car and clip the wiring plug back on.
Slide the unit back, ensuring that it sits into the catch on the inner wing.
Replace the three fixing screws. Here's a tip... If you don't like to use Torx and you would prefer to use a 10mm socket or spanner in future, then replace the fixing screws (or just the obscured bottom one) with ACME screws obtainable from good car-parts shops. These too have a captive washer and a 10mm hex head.
There will be no need to re-align the beam as the unit will sit back in exactly the same place as it originally was.
Push the bumper back into its three clips.
Sit the front grill back into place and ENSURE THAT THE PULL-HANDLE FOR THE BONNET CATCH IS RESTING ON TOP OF THE GRILL BEFORE CLOSING THE BONNET. If you've left the pull-handle inside the grill and then closed the bonnet, you will have one Hecky Thump of a job to get the bonnet open again!!
Job done!
With your hands and tools
36,000 miles
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no one knows