Wasn't aware a Merc 190 had an idler arm. However, clunky steering and wander. Observation of the idler arm will show excessive lateral movement
Most definitely.
Yes, a bad idler arm can cause a car to shake. The idler arm is part of the steering system that helps maintain proper alignment and stability. If it is worn or damaged, it can lead to play in the steering components, resulting in vibrations and shaking, especially at higher speeds. Addressing a faulty idler arm is essential for safe and smooth vehicle operation.
Wheels and tires out of BALANCE. Bad idler arm, control arm bushings worn out. Belt broken in tire. front end parts worn out. I would have the tires balanced FIRST. That's the cheapest thing to do.
When your rear trailing arm (rear control arm) are bad you will hear a clunking noise when going over bumps and potholes .... This noise is louder and more noticible while you have passengers in the rear seats..... You will also hear your tires squeek a little on turns
bad rear swing arm bushings on some you can tighten
it could be the idler arm. i have a 96 s10 blazer and the idler arm is bad everytime i parallel park and cut the wheel all the way in either direction my front end pops
There are two methods of changing control arm bushings. One method involves removing the damaged bushing arms and pressing out the bad units. When doing so it may be best to replace the bushings of both sides of the car. Since the control arm has been removed anyway and if the vehicle is of mileage it also may be the best opportunity to replace the ball joints. The second method would be purchasing a complete control arm assembly with new bushings and ball joints already installed.
When you notice their grades are dropping and their doing drugs and such
no, bad alignments come from potholes or front suspension parts needing replaced like your tie rod ends or idler arm.
It is very unusual that the control arm bushings would be bad this soon. Has a repair shop looked at them? It is not an easy job especially if you are doing them at home. Go to a parts house or a bookstore and get a Haynes Manual and it will give you full details with pictures.
The hardest part of changing an idler arm is getting the linkage separated. To do that you will need a ball joint fork and a big hammer. The end of the idler arm has a tapered shaft that is difficult to pull out. Remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, then start pounding the ball joint fork into the area between the idler arm and the tie rod with your big hammer. The tapered shaft is usually so tight that it takes quite a bit of effort to pull it all loose, but it will eventually come out. After you have pounded quite a while the thing will eventually come out, THEN disconnect the rest of the idler arm from he frame of the vehicle. It can be one of the more frustrating jobs related to working on automobiles. This particular vehicle has TWO idler arms, and they usually go bad at the same time. You will probably want to get the alignment checked after replacing the idlers.
Normally the idler wheel will have a bad bearing and will make a lot of grinding noise and or vibrate big time! If the bearings go out all together you will know real quick like as it will most likely burn or rip the belt off!