Removing The engine as a assembly would be as follows. First disconnect the battery. then the next steps are not required to be in exact order, but must be completed. I would start on the top side removing the wiring harness, ( disconnecting all sensors etc. ) do not disconnect from the fuse box. Disconnect the throttle cables and shift linkage. Removing the fan shroud is a must if you want acceptable clearance on the front. disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump. Removal of the starter would be recommended. Leave the engine mounts till last.going to the bottom side remove the flywheel metal or palstic guard to access the fly wheel bolts (assuming its automatic) rotate the flywheel removing each flywheel bolt . remember only take the flywheel loose from the torque converter. then remove the bottom transmission bolts first, then the top. Once you have reached this point you should have disconnected any minor sensors on the bottom of the engine. ( oil sensor, etc.). Now your ready to use a engine hoist to remove the engine. attach the chains to a sufficient place on the block to hold the weight, once you have lifted it enough to take the tension off the motor mounts then remove them ........and finally remove the engine with hoist.
need a puller to remove the power steering pump pulley, then remove the bolts holding the pump on
more apt to be the engine control module
Lots of time, patience, and money.
not enough information what type of vehicle does it have a idiot light or gauge
Topsoil varies in weight, depending on the type and texture, so it really depends.
prada spr 57l 1bc.1a1 120 3n
You're probably finding that the shaft the collar nut is on spins when you try to remove it. There are several tricks. If the unit is still on - leaving the belt on for tension, heat the collar nut with a torch and rap your open end wrench with a hammer. this should loosen it rather easy. If the unit is apart, and your replacing the water pump, lock up the pump impellor, heat the collar nut and rap your open end wrench with a hammer. CAREFUL WITH THE TORCH. Good Luck.
should be in the top of the valve cover on the passenger side and i believe you mean pcv valve right?
The wire goes to the coil, which is bolted to the drivers side head in the front of the motor.
the oil pressue sensor should be in the rear of the motor just behind the manifold there are several types but a 1 wire or hose should hook up to it I was afraid of that -- that's what the Chilton's manual says, too, but it doesn't tell me whether I have to remove the distributor (and I can't see anything that looks litke the new sensor I have). Do you know? Ding, ding, ding, we HAVE a winner!! I found it -- for anyone else in search of the elusive little thing, it's UNDER the distributor cap.
If this is a 305/350/400 small block Take the lead from the coil to the distributor "OFF" to prevent the engine from firing. This will take two people or a remote starter. Turn the engine over until the mark on the tortional damper lines up with the center or O mark on the timing tab on the front of the engine fastened to the crankcase front cover and the engine is in the number one firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the nuber one valve as the mark on the damper comes near the O mark on the crankshaft front cover.If the valves are not moving the engine is in the number one firing position.If the valves move as the mark comes up to the timing tab the engine is in number 6 position and should be rotated one more complete turn to bring it to the number one firing position. Also take the cover off of the distributor to determine that the rotor is positioned properly pointing to the number one spark plug then follow the firing order for that engine should be 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 Wayne
Any thing is possible just depends on how much you want to spend and also where you live if you have state inspections then no if not then try S10v8.com or jagsthatrun.com