How do you remove the subwoofer in a 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer?

Answer 1

My subwoofer was rattling very badly which told me the cone had dry rotted and came loose from the mount. I did a "makeshift fix" on the subwoofer. Here's what I did. I used a flat screwdriver to lift the edge of the "push pins" that hold the panel in place. Next I used a standard "claw hammer" to grab them carefully and gently but firmly pulled them straight out. Be careful not to scratch the plastic. Use a cloth, cardboard, etc. if you need to protect the sides. Mine pulled straight out. After removing all the push pins I pulled up part of the rear cargo strip edge that holds down the corner of the panel you just loosened to the floor. It pulls straight up with push pins also. Next, I lifted the carpet and underlayment and moved the loosened panel over the cargo latch on the floor to gain access to the speaker. This doesn't allow much room really but I didn't have a fitting to remove the seat belt from the top of the vehicle to completely remove the panel. Next, I removed the foam with the attached plastic ring by pulling the plastic ring. Mine was a bit snug but it came loose.Next, I took a small rachet and removed all the screws from the speaker front. I had hoped the speaker would now come loose but it would not. I took my flashlight, turned on the radio fairly loud and observed the speaker cone movement. As suspected, it had dry rotted around the edges. I have fixed speakers like this before with a simple tube of "Shoe Goo" which I bought at Walmart. I use it to repair shoes, etc. but it does a great job with speakers. I ran the goo all the way around the speaker making sure that I sufficiently overlapped the outter cone with the metal rim. I used my finger to smooth the goo on areas I couldn't see good. I checked with the flashlight. Made a few more touch-ups and left it to dry. Note: make sure the outer dry rotted area is as close to the metal edge as you can get it. The shoe goo gets tacky quickly so you can adjust as needed with you fingers. I know this is a half fix but it worked for me. Ken

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I tried Ken's approach and learned the subwoofer was dead. I'm in the middle of replacement so I'm "living" the moment now. Here's how to replace the speaker in my '98 Explorer EB:

1) Remove the side quarter panel trim

• Remove retaining pins. Ken did a good job describing how-to. I put some masking tape over the tips of a claw hammer and took care when popping out the plastic retaining pins
• Unbolt the RH rear passenger upper seatbelt bracket. I used a proper-sized allen wrench (sold in inexpensive kits at a auto, hardware, or home improvement store) to remove upper seat belt bracket.
• Remove screws under the carpet along the bottom edge of the panel. You'll need to pull back the carpet as Ken described.
• Loosen the clothes hanger hook. I used a very small socket to loosen the trim above the rear passenger door so the panel can slide out.
• Except for the seat belt fed through the slot, this should allow you to completely remove the panel from the truck inner wall (and move to the driver side while working.) I found that lowering the seat backs flat helps.

2) Remove the sound box

• The amplifier and subwoofer are mounted on and in a black, molded plastic sound chamber.
  • Unplug the cable from the radio on the left of the amp. There's a plastic clip - press and pull out.
  • Remove 4 bolts holding the sound chamber. Lift slightly and remove from truck wall.

3) Remove Subwoofer speaker

• Remove BOLT on back of sound chamber that supports the magnet end of the speaker
• Remove front screws holding the speaker face to the sound chamber.
• Lift out speaker gently; unplug wiring (+ is black, - is white)

Key Speaker requirements:

• Depth is ~3.75"
• 8", 4 ohm
• Original Amp puts out 85 watts

After lots of research and reading recommendations, the JL Audio 8W1v2-4 has a depth of about the same measure 3-13/16" -- the closest I've found.

Reverse procedure to install. Hope this helps. Greg