You have a problem in one of two places most likely. The switches contacts get worn most often on the driver side and the switch may need replaced or the motor in the door may need replaced. You would have to pull the door panel off and sometimes these motors are difficult to get out. They usually run 40 to 50 dollars at auto zone. If none of these is the problem try a hammer to the window (just kidding).
the wire harness between the doors/chassis always brakes or craks from opening/closing the doors
I found this link with p/n's and pictures along with instructions that appear to be generic to all types of vehicles.
tyclone.com
I've had this problem on a couple of old cars. Believe it or not, my boyfriend simply poured rubbing alcohol on the switch (the one that makes the window go up and down) and the windows worked again. He said it cleaned out the "schmutz." whatever, it worked - and it's a cheap thing to try! No need to remove panels or anything else. You can pry up the switch first and hold it away from the door while pouring if you don't want to spoil the leather or fabric.
On most Ford or Mercury models if you don't use the window often it will stop working. so all you have to do is guess about were you think the window motor is located and hit the door fairly hard with your hand and it should start working. I used to work at a body shop and I saved probably 100 people money with that little trick.
Hate to say it, but the most likely cause us a worn motor. It will kick the breaker off repeatedly. Remedy is not for the failt of heart, but entirely within the perview of weekend mechanics. Replace the drive motor (and regulator, probably). Get lotsa beer and some sympathetic help.
Its probably your window motor. Too hard for the average person to replace- see a mechanic!
I found mine ('90 626) started shuddering. Obviously a lube problem, my mechanic suggested Graphite Powder. Didn't work. Mechanical Oil worked for less than a week.
what worked was....
ARMOR ALL!!!!!
Brilliant. Slides like a dream for months!
I don't see this response: I spent a few hours learning the hard way that there is, on some cars, a children's window lock switch in the drivers compartment that cuts off power to the rear windows. You don't say which window don't function or if it will roll up. So - if it is off - you can't roll the back windows. RE: 1988 Ford WAgon
maybe you could try taking it to the mechanic
what is the average repair cost to fix an electric window switch motor 2003 jeep
when you buy the harness to wire in, the intructions for correct wiring will be on the harness packaging
mazda 323 wire harness color codes
You have a broken wire in the harness that runs to the drivers door. Look near the hinges for the door, the problem will be in that harness.
The 1996 Toyota Camry ignition harness has three wires. The red wire is the hot wire. The black wire is the ground wire. The white wire is the auxiliary wire.
Remove the inside door panel of your 1988 Lincoln Town Car. Remove the wiring harness from your window motor. Remove the window motor retaining screws. Reverse the process to install a new window motor.
Reset the left rear door power window by removing the power window motor and connect both the motor and the power window switch to the vehicle's wire harness. Turn the ignition switch on and it should be able to reset.
A company called painless wire harness Auto wrecking/salvage yards are also very good options if the harness doesn't need to be new.
To bypass a power window switch using a jumper wire, first, identify the switch terminals for the up and down functions of the window. Disconnect the switch from the wiring harness, and using a jumper wire, connect the terminal corresponding to the window motor's power feed to the terminal that activates the motor for raising the window. Ensure you're cautious to avoid short circuits, and only maintain the connection briefly to avoid damaging the motor. Always reconnect the switch afterward to restore normal function.
To trace a wire short in the steering column harness of a 1991 Oldsmobile, start by visually inspecting the wiring for any obvious damage, fraying, or loose connections. Use a multimeter to check for continuity along the wires, identifying any breaks or shorts by measuring resistance. Disconnect sections of the harness and test each segment to isolate the faulty wire, and ensure to check ground connections as well. Once identified, repair or replace the damaged wire as necessary.
Relace the rear window.....the heating coils are imbedded into the glass....or check the connections and trace the wire,check the fuses before you go that route.