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Start by removing the door from the door frame by pulling the screws from the hinges bottom up or by removing bthe hinge pins from the hinges in the same order. next remove the interior molding (trim) around the door frame. Remove any insulation that has been added between the door jamb and the framing of the door opening. after removing the insulation, are there any screws installed through the hinges or strike plates of the door frame? if so remove those. On the exterior of the home remove the moulding (trim) on the exterior of the door frame. At this point the door frame should be able to be removed frome the opening. The replacement door frame width should match the old door frame so tht the jamb of the new door is flush with the interior wall finish. To set the new door:(this is best preformed with 2 people, 1 inside and 1 outside when setting the new door unit):

1) measure the rough framed door opening for height and width. it should be approx. 1" wider and 1/2" taller (more or less).

2) check the floor with a level to ensure that what the new door is sitting on is level. If it is out of level, note which side is lowest.

3) Insert the door into the opening (remove any temp nails or fastners from the side of the jamb into the door), center it between the framing. If the floor is level proceed to #4, if not, is the floor lowest on the hinge side of the new door unit? if so shim up under the jamb leg on the hinge side until the threshold is level. If this is more than a 1/4" you should shim across the threshold every 6-8" for support. If possible remove the new door unit leaving the shim(s) in place and place some clear silicone caulking (a 1/2" bead across the center) from side to side in the opening.

4) if the floor is level or lowest on the strike side of the door (install a 1/2" bead of clear silicone caulk) in the center of the door opening on the floor and reset the door unit into the opening, shimming under the threshold to level it out.

5) once the above is accomplished and with the door unit still centered in the rough opening, nail the outside door moulding to the wall with a #12d or #16d galvanized case nail.

6) now using a four foot level, plumb the hinge side of the door jamb (using the level, shim the door jamb so that it is straight up and down) and nailing the moulding from the outside to the top. (approx. 1 nail at top and bottom and one at each hinge).

7) close the door into the jamb and look at the reveal (the gap between the door and the jamb), this should be about 1/8", shimming as needed to maintain this gap and nailing from the outside through the moulding to set the strike side of the door frame.

8) install insulation (chink) around the door jamb and the rough framing. Do not over fill this space or use a spray foam sealant, as this will cause the jamb legs of the new door unit to bulge hindering the operation of the door.

9) install interior moulding, and the door knob and deadbolt if needed.

10) paint/seal the new door on all 6 sides and the new door frame.

11) If the threshold sticks out too far past the wall on the bottom and is spongy when stepepd on you may want to install a threshold support under it. measure the width of the outside from moulding to moulding and fasten a 2x4 made of pressue treated wood under it to support the edge. Piant as neded and seal the edge of the threshold to the support with a clear silicone caulking after the paint/foinish has dried.

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17y ago

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