Jack up and support the rear of the car to minimize fluid loss. Remove vacuum hose from modulator. Remove bolt and retaining clip from under modulator. Remove modulator by pulling straight out. Install new modulator with new o-ring, replace clip and bolt and vacuum hose.
It should be on the passenger side near the rear of tranny.It cushions shifts with the use of engine vacuum.It can leak vacuum by way of the rubber diaphragm. When this happens the car may burn tranny fluid and produce a lot of blue white smoke.
Assuming this is a PowerGlide or Turbo-350 automatic transmission vacuum modulator, to minimize fluid loss jack up the rear of the truck and support with suitable jack stands, place a drip pan under the modulator, pull off the vacuum line from the modulator, remove the small bolt and clamp holding the modulator in place, gently twist and pull the modulator out taking care not to lose the small actuator pin inside. Keep the dirt from entering the opening. Install the new modulator with a new o-ring.
Remove the belt from your 1967 Ford Mustang alternator. Disconnect the alternator wiring. Remove the alternator retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new alternator.
The cost of a 1967 Mustang is dependent upon how the 1967 Mustang has been restored. A fully restored 1967 Mustang can bring is much as 80 thousand dollars at auction.
The 1967 Ford Mustang had hydraulic brakes
AverageJoeResto.com has a How to article and video on removing the ignition switch How To Remove a Mustang Ignition Switch, it's actually pretty easy.
6Jx14 ET12
a 67 mustang cost about $30,000
Yes, but you will need to use the original push rod from the 1966 Mustang as it is shorter than the 1967.
6 cyl.
1967
The ( 200 cubic inch ) straight 6 cylinder in a 1967 Ford Mustang is rated at ( 120 BHP )