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Did my 1997 3.5 Liter today.
8.5 foot-lbs or 105 inch-lbs. Recommend 5-7 as the aluminum heads strip very easily. Intake plenum bolts (4) require ~25 ft-lbs. Use a new gasket for this too. Torque riser tube grommet nuts at 5 ft-lbs, or snug-tight using 1/2" ratchet driver.
Also recommend Blue Loc-Tite on valve cover bolt threads to prevent them from backing out (as they do loosen up). After all the effort of pulling the top off of the engine for valve cover gaskets, recommend changing spark-plugs - do not bother re-gapping old ones), change the rubber grommets on riser tubes (they usually come with Fel-Pro gasket set, re-tape all electrical (like injector wires, etc.) with cloth tape (friction tape) and replacing all vacuum hoses under the intake plenum.
Of course, replace intake plenum and EGR riser tube gaskets with new as well. Clean both EGR riser tube connectors with small bottle brush (or aquarium brush) and/or new popsicle sticks as scrapers.
AutoZone has Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets for $25 per set and include rubber O-rings for riser tubes as well. Dealership will cost $80 per set. Use carb cleaner or brake cleaner on a soft cloth to wipe off both the head and the cover mating areas.
You will need to remove the Ignition coil and loosen mounting bracket with 15mm socket as well as loosen A/C mount bracket to remove passenger side valve cover.
Ignition wires go left to right, top to bottom: 2, 4, 6 then 5, 1, 3.
All of this work may yield "Check Engine Light" as new spark plugs and vacuum lines replaced can cause the system to "re-calibrate" - just clear them like mine.
Here is your opportunity to fix ALL vacuum lines on hoses - assuredly you will have cracked, hardened, and disconnected/loose vacuum lines since they are baked under the plenum.
What else can I help you with?
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The bolts have a number on it, what is the number? There is a general torque spec in the shop manual that will say what the torque is based on that number
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35 ~ 46 Foot pounds of torque. Pressure plate bolts.
