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Under the car on the pass side aprox. at where the seat is. Might not be your problem, check your injectors by pulling each injector connector (press clip in the middle and pull connector at the same time). Then, with a digital voltmeter put the leads on each leg on the injector (they are small so don´t short cut them, plus-minus or minus-plus doesn´t matter). Engine off and cold they should each measure about 15 to 17 ohms, with a max difference off aprox. 0.5 ohms. If any are below 10 ohms, they are shot and might be the cause of your cars symptoms. Another cause might be the EGR system. Try and read out the computer by jumping the ALDL connector under the IP drivers side bolster over your right knee when sitting in the car. There are two rows of 6 pins, bend a small paperclip to a U shape and connect the upper right two pins with each other. Don´t start the car but turn the ignition on only. If done right, a fan under the hood starts working and the SES light in the center info panel starts blinking. First time it blinks one short, two long, wich means 12, it does that three times with every code. If you get the following code: three long, two short, and that three times, you have a problem with your EGR system. Either the valve is stuck open or shut, or there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Easy check is to see if there is a vacuum line hanging loose somewhere. Especially the one right under the front of the plenum (big long aluminum box that goes over the entire engine), behind the thermostat housing. I found mine loose and solved a similar problem on my car.

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