Yes, the 1971 headers should work well on any head for a Gen 1 (pre-LT-1) Chevy small block. Header leaks are a common problem with all headers mating to all heads on any engine. The solution is to make sure that the headers that you buy are of a thick enough guage steel (usually 16 guage or thicker is best; and thicknesses are greater the smaller the number, so 14 guage is thicker than 16 guage) and that the flange is also thick enough (usually around 3/8" or thicker.) The flange thickness should help prevent warpage leaks and the tube thickness should prevent weld and stress crack leaks. Weld leaks usually occur when the tubing is thin because it is harder to weld thinner metal (turn up the heat and the weld pierces the tube, turn it down and the weld is weak, so thicker metal equals better weld) and stress cracks occur when heating and cooling a metal repeatedly, as this hardens the metal and causes it to be less pliable and easier to crack/harder to bend. The other considerations are torque pattern of the header bolts (nuts if your head has header studs) and gasket material and prep work. The head itself may have to be machined if it is an older/used head to ensure the mating surface is flat. The header and head should be thoroughly cleaned before placing the gasket or gasket sealant and you should follow header manufacturer instructions for 1) whether you need sealant, 2) what thickness and material the gasket should be (whether the engine is supercharged in any way affects this as well,) and 3) what the torque pattern and tightening spec's are for your headers (there is a specific order you MUST follow for tightening header bolts/nuts and a specific torque to tighten them to; often tightening is done in stages where you must tighten each bolt/nut in a specified order/pattern to a certain torque, then you must repeat the pattern of tightening again, and sometimes yet again, tightening slightly more each time to exact torque specifications each time to prevent warping the header flange by over-tightening one spot on the flange at a time.) If you follow all of these instructions you SHOULD not have any header leaks. There is always the question of quality though so I make no guarantees, but the horsepower and torque gains from using headers over stock exhaust manifolds is undeniable! I hope this helps you!
Greyrat70
To install headers on a Nissan 350Z, first, ensure the car is securely lifted and the exhaust system is cool. Remove the existing exhaust manifold by disconnecting the exhaust pipes, oxygen sensors, and any heat shields. Install the new headers by placing them in position, securing them with the provided gaskets and bolts, and reconnecting everything in reverse order. Finally, check for leaks and ensure all connections are tight before starting the engine.
This is one of the few applications where you are going to need to order your headers for that particular car. It is very tight and generic 350 headers are not going to fit. You will also probably need to have the collectors welded to your exhaust pipes to ensure you don't have exhaust leaks getting inside the car.
To replace the headers on a 1972 Plymouth Roadrunner, first, ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Remove any necessary components, such as the exhaust pipes and intake manifold, to access the headers. Unbolt the old headers from the engine block and the exhaust system, then install the new headers by reversing the process, ensuring all gaskets are in place to prevent leaks. Finally, reconnect all components and check for proper alignment and fit before starting the engine.
To install headers on a 2013 5.0 Mustang, first, ensure the vehicle is raised securely and the battery is disconnected. Remove the factory exhaust manifolds by detaching the exhaust pipes, unbolting the manifold from the engine, and removing any necessary components like heat shields. Install the new headers, making sure to use new gaskets and bolts, and then reattach the exhaust system. Finally, reconnect the battery and check for any leaks or issues before taking the car for a test drive.
No there is not, but that don't mean you don't have a leak somewhere. That is a old truck.
The torque specifications for the exhaust headers on a 2004 Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 SOHC typically range from 18 to 22 foot-pounds. It is crucial to consult the specific vehicle's service manual for the precise torque specifications as they can vary depending on the manufacturer and model. Proper torque is essential to ensure a secure seal and prevent exhaust leaks.
Fuel delivery problems. Spark/ignition issues. Vacuum leaks. Exhaust restrictions (bad cat).
Seems the flexpipe leaks at the ends...
In the 1996 Subaru Outback, the exhaust system typically connects through a series of flanges and clamps. The exhaust headers connect to the catalytic converter, which then leads to the mid-pipe. The mid-pipe is secured with hangers and connects to the rear muffler, allowing for proper exhaust flow and minimizing vibrations. Each section is designed for a tight fit to prevent leaks and ensure efficient operation.
To install long tube headers on a 1995 Camaro Z28, start by lifting the vehicle and removing the old exhaust manifolds, disconnecting any necessary components like the O2 sensors and exhaust pipes. Next, fit the new headers into place, ensuring proper alignment with the engine and bolt holes. Use new gaskets to seal the connections, tightening the bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping. Finally, reconnect the O2 sensors and exhaust system, and check for leaks before lowering the vehicle.
The most likely cause is an exhaust leak or a cracked exhaust manifold. While it is also possible that there is a problem with the Camry's catalytic converter, check to see if there are any leaks from the exhaust or any problems with the muffler first.
Most connections / joints between parts have a gasket to prevent leaks. So a failed gasket is a typical cause of leaks, including where the exhaust pipes connects to the exhaust manifold.