I've been a painting contractor for 32 years. Here's how you do it: you're going to need two coats of paint at least. For the first coat, roll your paint parallel to the ceiling to within a couple of inches of the ceiling, then using an angle cut brush of 2 to 2 1/2 inches in width (spend some money and get a good brush; don't use a piece of crap) paint up to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the ceiling. I like moving from right to left and painting from left to right into the paint(always paint into the paint you've brushed on the wall, not away from it). When you come back to do your second coat it will be easier to cut a line right at the ceiling because your brush slips more smoothly over the fresh first coat. The difference in color between the wall and the ceiling will make it easier for your eye to tell your hand where to go with the paint. Unless there is a perfectly sharp corner at the ceiling your line will be either on the wall or on the ceiling. In general, it's better to get it more on the ceiling than on the wall, because otherwise, assuming the ceiling is lighter, the line of your new paint will look more uneven from a distance.
Use "all purpose" compound for the texture. It will be a little stronger than topping compound. You could also use "Hot mud", which is a LOT stronger and won't soften when it gets wet. Part of your problem is, you're using a water based primer or paint over the texture, then you're rolling it. Try either using an oil based primer or just spray the primer over the texture without using the roller. Once the PVA primer sets up the texture should be strong enough to take the finish coat without trouble.
yes it can, but you need to strain the paint , or else it will clog up do to the composition of kilz it is very thick
Ensure that you are putting enough paint on the surface, then roll or spray the ceiling all in one direction. Always work to the wet paint edge and do not stop long enough for the paint to dry. If you are spraying, do two coats, one in the direction of the length, and the other in the direction of the width. If you are rolling and trying to avoid a second coat, make sure you are putting enough paint on the ceiling and then wait 24 hours. If you see marks after 24 hours, put on a second coat in the other direction, ie if you applied the first coat the length of the ceiling, apply the second coat in the direction of the width. Again, be sure to work into the wet edge so do not stop long enough to allow the paint to dry to the touch. Once you've finished the second coat, allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before judging the coverage. Another trick is to use a 100% acrylic stain kill primer instead of ceiling paint. It will cost about twice as much but it is as close as you can come to a guaranteed one coat ceiling paint. Since the ceiling is not subject to wear and tear, there is no need to top coat with a paint.
As long as you find that aesthetically pleasing, I don't see why not.
To repair a damaged knock down ceiling, you will need to scrape off the damaged texture, apply a new layer of joint compound, re-texture the area to match the existing knock down pattern, and then paint over the repaired area to blend it in with the rest of the ceiling.
To effectively repair a damaged knock down ceiling texture, you will need to scrape off the damaged area, apply a new layer of joint compound, and then reapply the knock down texture using a texture sprayer or a trowel. Sand the area smooth once the texture is dry, and then paint to match the rest of the ceiling.
To create a knock down texture ceiling in your home, you will need to follow these steps: Prepare the ceiling by cleaning and repairing any imperfections. Apply a coat of primer to the ceiling to help the texture adhere better. Mix the texture compound according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a texture sprayer or a trowel to apply the texture to the ceiling in a random pattern. Allow the texture to partially dry, then use a trowel to flatten and smooth out the texture, creating the knock down effect. Let the texture dry completely before painting or finishing the ceiling. Remember to practice on a small area first to get the hang of the technique before applying it to the entire ceiling.
My uncle is a painter and he said you will probably have to repaint ceiling but first user a Kilz primer to cover the oily stain then paint ceiling.
You need to be sure of what it is before you decide upon removal tactics. Is it a bee hive that is actually in the ceiling or wall, or is it a wasp or hornet nest that is visible and stuck to the ceiling or wall? If it is a bee hive there will be honeycomb involved and that will all need to be removed from the ceiling. Call a professional to smoke out the bees, open up the ceiling, remove the hive, and then seal the hole. If it is just the papery nest of a wasp or a hornet or the mud nest of a mud dauber, those are easy, get some wasp and hornet freeze. soak the nest and let it soak about 24 hours, then knock the nest down. Make sure before you knock it down you don't notice any activity.
You need to knock out your opponent or knock them down three times.
I've been a painting contractor for 32 years. Here's how you do it: you're going to need two coats of paint at least. For the first coat, roll your paint parallel to the ceiling to within a couple of inches of the ceiling, then using an angle cut brush of 2 to 2 1/2 inches in width (spend some money and get a good brush; don't use a piece of crap) paint up to within 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the ceiling. I like moving from right to left and painting from left to right into the paint(always paint into the paint you've brushed on the wall, not away from it). When you come back to do your second coat it will be easier to cut a line right at the ceiling because your brush slips more smoothly over the fresh first coat. The difference in color between the wall and the ceiling will make it easier for your eye to tell your hand where to go with the paint. Unless there is a perfectly sharp corner at the ceiling your line will be either on the wall or on the ceiling. In general, it's better to get it more on the ceiling than on the wall, because otherwise, assuming the ceiling is lighter, the line of your new paint will look more uneven from a distance.
Use "all purpose" compound for the texture. It will be a little stronger than topping compound. You could also use "Hot mud", which is a LOT stronger and won't soften when it gets wet. Part of your problem is, you're using a water based primer or paint over the texture, then you're rolling it. Try either using an oil based primer or just spray the primer over the texture without using the roller. Once the PVA primer sets up the texture should be strong enough to take the finish coat without trouble.
yes it can, but you need to strain the paint , or else it will clog up do to the composition of kilz it is very thick
The wind would need to be at least 70-75 miles per hour to knock down an average-sized person.
No. Any washable paint can be used on a gypsum plaster board ceiling in a kitchen.If the ceiling has been painted previously, or is not new, before applying the paint, apply a coat or two of sealer. This will make sure that any residue from cooking grease will not make the paint peel off.Check the compatibility of the new coatings with the existing coatings. It may be necessary to etch prime. Talk to a knowledgeable person at a paint supply store for advice, or read the information on the paint can to check.
Ensure that you are putting enough paint on the surface, then roll or spray the ceiling all in one direction. Always work to the wet paint edge and do not stop long enough for the paint to dry. If you are spraying, do two coats, one in the direction of the length, and the other in the direction of the width. If you are rolling and trying to avoid a second coat, make sure you are putting enough paint on the ceiling and then wait 24 hours. If you see marks after 24 hours, put on a second coat in the other direction, ie if you applied the first coat the length of the ceiling, apply the second coat in the direction of the width. Again, be sure to work into the wet edge so do not stop long enough to allow the paint to dry to the touch. Once you've finished the second coat, allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before judging the coverage. Another trick is to use a 100% acrylic stain kill primer instead of ceiling paint. It will cost about twice as much but it is as close as you can come to a guaranteed one coat ceiling paint. Since the ceiling is not subject to wear and tear, there is no need to top coat with a paint.