I think you are referring to analine dyes, which act like stain to impart transparent color to wood and other porous materials. A good selection can be purchased online; try vandykes.com - they provide basic instructions with their products. If you are adventurous, and the desk is not precious to you, another idea is to experiment with non-commercial dye substances (a friend makes a habit of dying picture frames with Kool-Aid; I've used shoe polish and watercolor paints in a pinch). All transparent finishes must be top-coated with a sealant, such as clear polyurethane, to protect the surface - even if you do not want a shiny finish. A desk, in particular, will have to withstand rough use on the top and drawer fronts. A warning: in any finishing job, surface prep is the key to success. Some transparent finishes look horribly blotchy if the surface has not been prepared. Be sure the substrate is absolutely clean and free from old finish. "Pressed wood" could be a veneer, which certainly may be of fine quality, but will require a conditioning treatment to insure the dye is absorbed evenly. Wood conditioners are available wherever you buy your top coat. Good luck, and congratulations on saving an old treasure - it's still the best form of recycling!
Watercolour paints are most commonly done on paper. The selection of papers to do watercolours on is wide and diverse. Tooth (the roughness of the paper), thickness (measured in weight), size and the way they are processed all effect how your paint is taken up by the paper. There is also the "hot pressed" finish which is quite smooth and cold pressed, that is slightly less smooth (and the favourite of many watercolour artists. See the related link below for more detailed information.
Finish it as you would any hardwood. Elm can be difficult to work with, but it will take a decent finish.
If it has a matte finish it should be easy to paint over.
Flamed is a type of finish or treatment. Compared to honed, flamed tends to have more texture and the finish is not shiny. It has a more matte finish and is common in industrial design.
You can achieve a very smooth finish if the labor is expended for a steel trowel finish. This normally requires more manpower or less area during the shoot.
The original finish that was used on the RIA M1903 was parkerized and not blued. The parkerized finish is much more?æappealing.?æ
Original parts and finish is a vague description. Is it in 100% condition and finish
Your savage 24D is going for between 180-400 dollars depending if it has 60% of original finish up to 98% of original finish.
Yes, they can be stripped clean and then polished (raw brass), or a new coat of lacquer or other finish can be applied.
Blue
For you to build an original magnet you need you need to buy bananas with a mango and then eat. And FINISH you have CREATED AN ORIGINAL magnet!!!!!
A 60% original finish gun will bring 375 dollars.A 90% original finish shotgun will bring 650 dollars.
The model 62A is going for between 130 dollars for a 10%original finish gun,up to 475 dollars for a nice specimen in 90% original finish.
At this time S P fjestads blue book of gun values rates a browning olympian grade rifle between 3,500-7,750 dollars depending on the amount of original finish remaining.The low end is for a rifle with 60% original finish,and the high end is for a fine specimen with 98% original finish remaining.
the pearly finish on the inside of a shell
Finish Line
The norinco model 1911A1 is valued at between 275 dollars for a gun with 60% original finish remaining up to 450 dollars for a gun with 90% original finish remaining,and a good bore.