get a manual and use lots of zip ties
Under the hood, they are plugged into the Intake plenum by the MAF.
To many to try and go thru on this site, but your Dakota should have the routing on a label that is on the under side of the hood. If not, my Chiltons book in the Emissions chapter starting at page 4-20 has routing diagrams for all of the engines.
I'd try a Hane's manual first. It would be the cheapest way to go. As a side note, if there are vacuum lines disconnected, it's possible that it was done to fool an emissions test to get it to pass. If you need to pass another emissions test, you might want to disconnect them again before the test (or spend the thousands of dollars replacing parts trying to get the truck to pass).
The purge canister is that black can in the front of cars and has wires and vacuum lines going to it, It is filled with charcoal.You just have to find out what is wrong. Start by checking the connections and vacuum lines and solonoid.
i would try a can of ether pray all vacuum lines one a time. when it ides up then know where the leak is.
To route vacuum lines on a 1974 Dodge Dart, start by identifying the vacuum sources, typically from the intake manifold or carburetor. Ensure that lines are connected to the correct components, such as the brake booster, HVAC controls, and any emissions equipment. Use proper fittings and avoid sharp bends to prevent kinks in the lines. Finally, check for leaks and ensure all connections are secure for optimal performance.
Code P0401 indicates insufficient exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) flow in a Dodge Avenger. To fix this issue, first, inspect and clean the EGR valve and passages to remove any carbon buildup. Additionally, check the EGR system for leaks, ensuring all vacuum lines and connectors are intact. If the problem persists, consider replacing the EGR valve or the EGR vacuum solenoid as needed.
any petcocks on the throttle body or intake are vacuum lines excluding fuel lines
The heater/ac doors are all electric. They are not vacuum controlled.
You have a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum lines and replace as necessary. Due to the fact that the car stalls when the brakes are applied, this may indicate a busted diaphragm in the brake booster. Replace all vacuum lines that are suspect, and take a close look at the large vacuum line going to the brake booster. If after replacing all defective vacuum lines the problem persists, look closely at the booster. A vacuum gauge will verify if it is indeed defective. Be sure and replace all vacuum lines one at a time to avoid getting confused. One other possibility is a bad intake manifold gasket. Good luck.
go to the library and get a chiltons repair manual for 71 dodge.
this could be a vacuum problem directly behind the plenum, that's the large manifold on top of the motor by the way. to be thorough, pull off the vacuum line lead and then try starting the car... if it starts you know that there is a blockage in one of your lines. problem solved..
If equipped, it is on the top of the transfer case and has four vacuum lines plugged into it.
on top of the transfer case. You should see 4 vacuum lines going to the top of the switch
Just pull off the old vacuum hose, cut an appropriate length of the correct sized replacement hose and push it on. If you can't find, or get, the right sized vacuum hose, windshield washer hose is often an acceptable replacement. BTW, it is totally acceptable to replace those hard plastic vacuum lines with rubber vacuum or washer hose.
To fix the vacuum lines to the front differential actuator on a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, first, identify the vacuum lines connected to the actuator and inspect them for cracks or damage. If any lines are broken, replace them with new vacuum tubing of the same diameter. Ensure all connections are secure and free of leaks by using hose clamps if necessary. Finally, test the actuator by engaging the four-wheel drive to confirm proper functionality.
I would start by checking vacuum lines