When you develop film, the chemical that's touching the film wears out after a while--the real term is "reaches exhaustion," but that just means it wore out. When you agitate the tank, the worn-out developer is exchanged for fresh. Over-agitation can cause development streaking because the solution travels through the sprocket holes too much. Too little agitation can result in lowered contrast and un-even development (mottling).
Comment on overagitation
You "overagitate" by moving the tank too rapidly. You can overagitate if you turn the tank over once every five minutes, if you flip it really, really hard when you do. There are rotary processor systems such as Jobo that continuously agitate the tank, but it's a very slow, gentle agitation so you don't get streaks around your sprocket holes. I also remember being into H&W Control film, which was a film-developer system that promised nearly grainless, super long tonal scale images. It actually did it too, if you didn't mind that the film was ISO 25. You had to continuously agitate it. Wouldn't work any other way, or so the instruction sheet said. I figured if they went to the good time and trouble to tell you to do it they had a reason, so I always did it and it worked like the book said it would.
In my experience, liquids are always needed in the processing of films. If you consider printing part of the processing, then the negatives (the film after developing) are typically air dried before printing. There would be no reason to want to keep negatives permanently wet. Trying to manually rush the drying of negatives would inevitably lead to occasional damage.
Hot water (engine coolant) expands and pushes its way back into the coolant reservoir.
Following are the advantages of Live Tank over dead Tank : a) The Primary conductor is short than (in live tank CT) than the Dead tank CT which gives better Rigidity and gives high short circuit current withstanding capability and reliability. b) Primary winding is uniformly distributed around Core, Hence CT is truly low reactance type, which has inherent better transient performance. c) Due to shorter length and the tank being live the major insulation is not over the high current carrying primary, which is the main source of heat (as in the case of Dead tank type design.) the insulation does not get heated up while dissipating the heat generated. This facilitates much superior thermal stability of insulation and longer life.
The tank is not venting properly.
At the very least, a camera and the time and place to use it. Otherwise, if you're working with film, some items might include:FilmFilm cameraTripodDifferent lensesFilm developing tank (plus necessary chemicals for developing the film)Access to a darkroom with a projector, filters, and necessary chemicalsPhoto paper (Like Ilford)Negative sleevesIf you're working with a digital camera, some items might include:Digital cameraTripodPhoto editing softwareOther than this, you may also want to use lighting equipment and backdrop sheets, amongst things like props and sets (for shoots that need them).
To develop film at home, you will need a darkroom or a changing bag, developing chemicals, a developing tank, film reels, a thermometer, and a timer. First, load the film onto the reel in complete darkness. Then, mix the chemicals according to the instructions and pour them into the developing tank. Agitate the tank at specific intervals and temperatures. Finally, rinse the film and hang it to dry.
Oxygen is pretty important...some film developing machines agitate their chemistry by firing bursts of nitrogen into the developer tank.
To unroll film for developing in a darkroom, first make sure you are in complete darkness. Open the film canister and remove the film. Carefully unroll the film and place it in a developing tank. Close the tank and proceed with the developing process following the instructions for the specific type of film you are using.
Your local photofinishing retail outlet might offer this service, but they will usually only do this at the time of development. If you need or want to do this, you will need a film/transparency scanner (there are 2 types: flat-bed and dedicated) to scan your negatives and save as image files. A regular scanner will not work because the scan light needs to be above (in the lid) to scan film. Scanners that do only film are configured differently, so you may need to research scanner models and image file types to help you decide if it is worth the expense and effort to do this yourself. Your most common file type choice would be either jpeg, bitmap or tiff.
To properly develop an exposed film roll, follow these steps: Prepare the necessary chemicals and equipment in a darkroom or light-tight changing bag. Remove the film from the camera and transfer it to a developing tank. Mix the developer solution according to the instructions and pour it into the tank. Agitate the tank at regular intervals to ensure even development. Rinse the film with stop bath to halt the development process. Fix the film with a fixing solution to make the image permanent. Rinse the film thoroughly with water and hang it to dry in a dust-free environment.
The essential components of film developing equipment include a developing tank, film reels, chemicals (developer, stop bath, fixer), thermometer, timer, and a darkroom or changing bag. These tools are necessary for processing photographic film to create images.
To properly develop an undeveloped film, you will need to follow these steps: Prepare a darkroom or a light-tight changing bag to handle the film. Remove the film from the camera in complete darkness. Place the film in a developing tank. Mix the developer solution according to the instructions. Pour the developer solution into the tank and agitate it at regular intervals. Rinse the film with water to stop the development process. Fix the film with a fixing solution to make the image permanent. Rinse the film again to remove any remaining chemicals. Hang the film to dry in a dust-free area. Following these steps will help you properly develop an undeveloped film.
To learn how to develop film from a film camera, you can take a photography class, watch online tutorials, or read instructional books on film developing. You will need a darkroom, chemicals, and equipment like a film developing tank. Practice and patience are key to mastering this skill.
Developing a camera film negative involves several steps. First, the film is placed in a lightproof container called a developing tank. Next, a series of chemical solutions are used to develop the film, including a developer, stop bath, fixer, and rinse. The film is then dried and can be printed or scanned to create a positive image.
To develop film negatives at home, you will need a darkroom or a light-tight space, developer chemicals, stop bath, fixer, and a film developing tank. First, load the film into the tank in complete darkness. Then, follow the instructions on the developer chemicals to develop the film. After developing, rinse the film with stop bath and fixer to stop the development process and make the image permanent. Finally, wash the film thoroughly with water and hang it to dry.
In my experience, liquids are always needed in the processing of films. If you consider printing part of the processing, then the negatives (the film after developing) are typically air dried before printing. There would be no reason to want to keep negatives permanently wet. Trying to manually rush the drying of negatives would inevitably lead to occasional damage.
To learn and practice DIY film developing at home, you can start by researching online tutorials and guides. Purchase a film developing kit and necessary equipment such as a developing tank, chemicals, and a darkroom or changing bag. Follow the instructions carefully, practice with test rolls, and experiment with different techniques to improve your skills. Remember to work in a darkroom or use a changing bag to avoid exposing the film to light.