this is for dry glaze
Choose a container that is two times larger than the total amount of finished glaze. Select a 1- to 5-gallon container. If you're making 1/2 gallon of glaze, use a 1-gallon container. This allows enough room to coat the pottery.
2
Adhere masking tape 1/4 to 1/2 inches from the bottom of the pottery. Placing the tape around the base of the piece helps later on during the firing process.
3
Pay attention to the cone number. There are a variety of kilns for firing pottery. Each uses the cone number as an indicator for the kiln type. Unless experimenting, use the specific type recommended.
4
Create a caramel dry glaze (cone 10) by combining 50 grams of pumice stone and 50 grams of rottenstone. For a satin green dry glaze (cone 10) replace the rottenstone with 14 seltzer tablets and 10 grams of talcum powder to the 50 grams of ground pumice. Grind the solid materials into a powder form
5
Measure dry ingredients one at a time. Pour them into the mixing container. To produce the best results, weigh all chemicals accurately.
6
Secure the sealable lid on the bucket. Place the container on its side and gently roll it on the floor for 1 to 2 minutes. Allow the dust to settle for at least 1 minute. Remove the lid after the dust has settled.
7
Apply the glaze to the pottery by dipping the piece into the dry glaze.
Yes you can.
the best way to get off a small bit of glaze off the base of a pot (like small bits from a kiln shelf) is to use a carborundum/sharpening stone and slowly grind it down
Yes, as long as the glazes are meant to be fired to the same cone. Putting a cone 6 and a cone 10 glaze on the same pot would not be a good idea. But putting two, three, four, etc. glazes of the same cone on one pot is perfectly fine. Just understand that glazes may be stable by themselves, but when another glaze is added on top that may create instabilities such as crazing or running. The biggest problem I have had with combining glazes on one pot is running. Just make sure to put the pot on stilts or on a waste slab so you don't have to grind glaze off the kiln shelf.
Depends on exactly what you mean ---- of course you cannot really remove the fired glaze and then apply another one but it is often possible to paint ceramic colours onto a fired item and then re-fire it. If its very old then there may be a problem with cracking of the pot or crazing of the glaze. In the end you just have to try it and hope for the best!
Coil pots are made when clay is rolled into thin snake-like ropes and then layered on top other. Most of one and times the outside of a coil pot is usually smoothed so the coils are not seen.
You should not put glaze on the bottom of a clay pot where it will come into direct contact with surfaces when placed down for firing. The glaze could cause the pot to stick to the kiln shelf during firing and result in damage to both the pot and the kiln.
I think you mean the word 'underglaze' which is whatever is under the glaze on a pot. So you can speak of 'underglaze colours' or 'underglaze painting' and so on. Because glaze is the final coating on a pot, just about everything else is 'underglaze' work. There is also 'On-glaze' painting, which what it says ---I bet you guessed that one o.k. !
Yes you can.
the best way to get off a small bit of glaze off the base of a pot (like small bits from a kiln shelf) is to use a carborundum/sharpening stone and slowly grind it down
Probably the most common reason for blue in a ceramic pot is the inclusion of cobalt either as an oxide or carbonate in the glaze or clay itself.
It depends on whether or not the pot has been covered in glaze, or whether the pot has been fired. If neither has been applied, or if the pot has not been fired, the water make cause the pot to fall apart.
Yes, as long as the glazes are meant to be fired to the same cone. Putting a cone 6 and a cone 10 glaze on the same pot would not be a good idea. But putting two, three, four, etc. glazes of the same cone on one pot is perfectly fine. Just understand that glazes may be stable by themselves, but when another glaze is added on top that may create instabilities such as crazing or running. The biggest problem I have had with combining glazes on one pot is running. Just make sure to put the pot on stilts or on a waste slab so you don't have to grind glaze off the kiln shelf.
Depends on exactly what you mean ---- of course you cannot really remove the fired glaze and then apply another one but it is often possible to paint ceramic colours onto a fired item and then re-fire it. If its very old then there may be a problem with cracking of the pot or crazing of the glaze. In the end you just have to try it and hope for the best!
The glass in a frame. Commonly the window of a house or the glaze.The word Glaze means any extra surface coating on a thing .....Like doughnut gets a soft sugar glaze ... while a clay pot gets a liquid glaze heated into a Hard glaze.....or the runner had a glaze of sweat on his face...... um Oh yes... glass too is known as glaze so too is the putty used to seal it into its frame....I can only assume they get this odd usage of the word because the glass is an extra coating on the building
Coil pots are made when clay is rolled into thin snake-like ropes and then layered on top other. Most of one and times the outside of a coil pot is usually smoothed so the coils are not seen.
racipe of the glaze for sanitary ware
Peter Glaze is 5' 5".