How do you change radiator on Peugeot 307?

Answer 1

unfortunately the only way to get the engine out of the engine bay is to support the engine and then take off the driver side engine mount and physically move the engine towards the passenger compartment which will give you enough room to remove the radiator. Hope this helps.

not true.

two or 4 bolts hold on the front bumper,dependant on the series of 306(phase 1/2/3)the easiest way to change the radiator is to remove the front bumper along with the slam panel,which is also only held on by two bolts,unplug the electrical connections and the bonnet release.remove fan (unscrew the electrical plug first!)and remove also.

hey presto.

little tip:put some baby oil or sumthing around the gromit that goes into the lower radiator joint,its a pig of a job fitting otherwise.

alternative remove the lower radiator hose itself by releasing the clamp round the back of the engine and fit it away from the car :)

perfect stress free fit!

I would say this.

306 1.9 D 1998 S reg.

1 Drain system from bottom of rad, should be a drain off there. If not take off bottom hose from the driver side connected to the engine see 6 to do this.

2 Remove trim behind bonnet latch, should be one bolt and 4 plastic re-usable clips.

3 Remove air intake on rhs, bolt is 10mm and a little fiddly to get to but makes it much easier later on.

4 Remove expansion tank cap and then the tank itself, including bracket which is held on with 3 torx bolts.

5 Assuming the handbrake is already on, remove driverside front wheel.

6 Remove wheel arch liner, its in 2 bits and is held on with plastic clips which again can be re-used if removed carefully.

7 Remove screen wash bottle, unscrew neck from under bonnet first, then two 10mm nuts hold tank in place. Undo wire connection from motor and remove the clear piping to the washer jets, marking their positions as one is front and the other is rear!

8 Now you should be able to get to the bottom hose which is held on by two clips, very important as they keep hose from touching cam belt!! It travels from the back of the engine block to the bottom connection on the rad. Dont remove it from the rad yet.

9 In the engine bay remove the other hoses from the rad, should be easy enough with a set of pump pliers. I found it best to completely remove the top hose.

10 Now the rad should have just the bottom hose connected. It should be possible to remove the rad with it connected, but two pairs of hands make it much easier, one removing the rad and the other feeding the hose out of the wheel arch.

11 With the rad removed you should be able to remove the bottom hose relatively easily, but take care. You will find an O ring inside, which is likely to be damaged. I actually picked up two from Euro car Parts incase I damaged one.

12 Inside the bottom hose you will see it has a slit which lines up with a lug in the rad itself. It makes things much easier if you use some vaseline or baby oil around the O ring now as it needs firm pressure to locate it properly.

13 To be sure of it not leaking I now blanked off the other outlets and filled the rad with water. First time the O ring had not seated properly so it was worth checking!

14 Now, as usual to a Haynes manual refitting was the reverse of removal! The hardest bit is getting the hose back through the hole in the bulkhead, the rest is just a matter of reconnecting everything you removed.

15 The last thing to do is refill the system. I used a 3 litre squash bottle as a header tank and fitted it to the expansion tank using insulating tape. There are two dust caps one is on the heater matrix going into the bulkhead next to brake reservoir on the left of the engine and the other is located in a small pipe that goes from the expansion tank to the cylinder head on the right side. Remove these and refill until water emerges with no air or bubbles then tighten lower dust cap first then the heater matrix one.

16 Start car with header tank still on and topped up and run engine. You should now be good to go.

Answer 2

Removal of the radiator is very simple -a matter of two bolts and 4 hose clips. However, to get into the 2 bolts, you need to remove the entire front bumper, and to do this, you must first of all remove the front wheel arch inners. The inners are held by a number of plastic clips, and depending on age of the car, these may need replacing with new ones. Once inners removed, unbolt front bumper section from the wings, and release clips on wing/bumper overlap. Now undo 3 bolts and 2 plastic clips holding engine skirt to underside of car. The undo the 4 clips and unbolt the 2 bolts holding the top section of the bumper along the engine bay. Ease bumper off - 2 people is easier for this stage. Now you can undo the 2 bolts holding the radiator top clamps, ease these off, undo the 4 hose clips, and ease these clear. Radiator now lifts out.

Replacing is just the reverse process.

Access to these two bolts (actually star-head screws) can be achieved without taking off the bumper. Simply remove the 4 plastic 'mushroom' clips and the two Torx screws along the top edge of the plastic bumper assembly (near edge of radiator). VERY CAREFULLY flex the plastic bumper assembly forward and you can access the two radiator bolts. It sounds horrible, but a Peugeot mechanic showed me how to do it and it works fine.