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1) check for hidden metal debris w/ a metal detector

2) clean off embedded dirt and debris with a wire brush

3) rough cut to length

3) joint one face with either a jointer or by hand with a plane (scrub/ jack followed by a jointer and possibly a smoother). Concave face down. 1/32-1/16" per pass. (see below for wide boards that don't fit on your jointer)

4) thickness plane (generally ~1/8 -1/16" over final thickness). Note as you approach final thickness i.e. after both sides are flat, but before reaching final thickness, you can alternate the surfaces for planing trying to equalize the amount of wood taken from each face).

5) edge joint (4 and 5 can be reversed depending upon personal preference and the orientation of the grain pattern. Wood should always be planed (jointer or planer) will the grain "uphill" with respect to the cutter head. In this way, having surfaced both sides allows for the operator to choose the best (straightest) side for edge jointing.

6) cut to final length/ width

7) final thickness via the planer. You can take it to final thickness in step 4 if you like and save a little time, but I tend to be conservative of my thickness until the end. Also, some planer setups tend to snipe more than others, so planing to final thickness and then cutting to final length allows some room for snipe on the ends.

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