How do you install Ceiling Tiles?

Answer 1

Tile is one of the oldest types of finish covering used on pitched roofs. Tile roofing has grown increasingly popular because of its fireproofing qualities. Clay or concrete tile roofing is available in a variety of styles. Clay tile is manufactured by baking plates of molded clay into tile, and is lighter than concrete tile. However, concrete tile is more durable and is used more often than clay tile.

Things You'll Need:

• Roof
• Saw
• Battens
• Cant strips
• Tiles
• Underlayment
• Metal flashing
  

1. Step 1 : Install underlayment across the sheathing of the roof. There is a wide selection of asphalt-saturated felt underlayment available, but 30 pound felt is the most commonly used type. Research local building codes to determine what type of underlayment to use. Follow underlayment manufacturer instructions when installing
2. Step 2 : Install the metal flashing where needed. Places such as valleys, chimneys, skylights, and where a roof butts against a vertical wall will require metal flashing. The flashing should be a 28-ga corrosion-resistant metal.
3. Step 3 : Nail the two-inch thick cant strip flush with the eave of the roof. This strip, which is twice the thickness of the battens, slants the first course of tiles so that it matches the rest of the courses. Every four feet, allow a half-inch to one-inch gap to let water drain across the row of cant strip and the battens, which will be placed across the entire roof.
4. Step 4 : Hook a tape measure to the roof eave and measure up the length of the tile being used; make a mark on the underlayment. The tiles will have a one-inch overhang at the eave and the half-inch head lug at the rear of the tile, so minus one-and-a-half inches from the first mark and make a mark on the underlayment. Do this at both ends of the roof and then snap a line with a chalk box. For example, if the tile is 16 inches, the mark will be made 15 inches up from the eave.
5. Step 5 : Nail the 1x2 batten below and flush with the snapped line. For the rest of the snapped lines for the battens, minus three-and-a-half inches from the length of the tile being used and snap lines this length across the rest of the roof. For example, if the tile is 16 inches, the marks will be placed every 13 inches up the roof and snapped out for the battens.
6. Step 6 : Lie the tile down by working in a left to right direction because of the vertical keyway between the tiles. Vertical interlocking joints must be free of any foreign matter to ensure a proper fit and interlocking of the tiles. The head lug, which is the lip at the rear of the tile, will rest behind each row of battens. The number of tiles to be fastened with nails depends on the roof slope, on whether or not battens were used, and on the anticipated wind velocity in the area. Research local building codes to determine the tile nailing schedule.

Answer 2

Sometimes you can just lay the new shingles over the old, but it depends on how many layers are already on the roof... but before you lay new shingles you need to get in the attic and check for any leaks that you may need to replace plywood before shingling.

Answer 3

There are two things that make or break this project. Number one is the floor underneath has to be spotless of all dirt and dust and such. Next you have to start with a straight line or it wont look very good. There are two ways to approach this. One is to start in the middle of the room and work your way out to the sides. You would start by measuring out a line in the middle of the room that is equal from both ends from one of the walls. Pop a chalk line then start laying the tiles. You would then trim around the walls to get them to fit. Another way is to start along one wall and work your way to the other side. You still want to make sure the tiles are going in a straight line. The walls are rarely ever truly straight. I hope this helps and good look with your project.

Answer 4

It depends, are you installing it on a concrete slab, or on a wood sub floor?

If it's on concrete, it's much easier. You first need to clean the concrete floor, remove any paint drops, or anything else that may be giving it an uneven surface. If there is a stress crack in the concrete, or a chip missing, you should go over it with a trowel and some mortar to even it out. In the end, you should have a flat, clean concrete surface.

If it's a wood sub floor. You need to first install cement board over the wood sub floor. This is a job in itself. Different cement boards have different installation directions. Typically they consist of laying some mortar over the wood sub floor, then laying down the cement board, screwing it down every 5 inches or so, then taping the seams with fiberglass mesh and mortar.

After that the process is the same. Use a trowel to spread some thin set mortar over the concrete or cement board (do small areas at a time, enough to lay 4-6 tile down), pull the trowel in 1 direction so that it's leaving straight lines. Be sure that you are getting 100% coverage, don't miss any spots where the tile is going, otherwise you will create hollow spots under the tile, in turn making weak spots. After that you lay the tile, make sure it's straight and aligned with any walls in the area. Use spacers to space apart the tile. Where the tile ends and meets anther type of flooring such as wood floors, or carpet, you will need an appropriate finishing or transfer strip.

After 24 - 36 hours after the tile is installed, you can apply the grout. You use a rubber trowel to spread the grout, let it sit for the specified amount of time, then clean off the excess with a wet sponge. After another 24-36 hours, you should seal the grout to keep it looking new, clean, and most importantly keep moisture out (especially important in bathrooms).

Answer 5

The installing of flashing around roof tiles can be complicated and varies depending on the type of tiles, the flashing material, the conditions (weather etc. that it is exposed to) and the type of junction. To make sure it is done correctly, get drawings and information from the manufacturer of the tiles. Their method may need to be followed for any guarantees to apply.

If the manufacturer of the tiles does not exist anymore or cannot be traced, look at traditional or similar examples.

The flashing detail used may also need to comply with local authority regulations.

Answer 6

Installing ceiling tiles requires a few simple tools. Specifically wire cutters, yard stick, a level, an exacto knife and ceiling tile brackets. The wires are suspended from joists and then the brackets are leveled to a predetermined height. The wires are spaced by using the yard stick measurements and by using a level. After the brackets are installed, and fastened, the ceiling tiles are put in place. Some may have to be cut to size.

Answer 7

We'll start by assuming that you are installing into a wood framed structure but the same general concept applies for metal construction. in order to get as plesing a look as possible begin by laying small cross beams between your roof rafters. on the first row at the bottom be sure to use a chalk line and start at one end pull/ push the cross piece to the line and hold in place to nail, you want to make this one straight because the next satep builds off of that one. second (assuming you are using 2 by 4's or 1 by 4's cut two pieces of scrap 1 by or 2 by to the distance you want your centers minus 3 and 1/2 inches (the width of a 2 by four or one by four. for 24 inch centers that would be 20 and 1/2 inches) place on piece of scrap on each of your first two joists and set you next cross board against the top pulling down to keep it tight and nailing the cross board into the rafter.. then remove the two pieces of scrap and move down to the next two rafters, always pulling the cross pieeces down tight to the top end of the scraps- if your first cross board was laid straight your second will also remain straight, as you work your way to the top of the roof (those two pieces of wood will make for a neater appeearrance and save a lot of chalk lines.

to actually install the roofing material itself use self tapping cap screws for metal roofs. Each screw will have a rubber washer under a metal "cap" and will require a 1/4 or 5/16 inch bit (use a drill and buy a magnetic bitthey are real timesavers don't bother with a cordless screwdriver the battery will die after only a couple of rows into your project,)

As far as screw placement goes you will want to place a screw on each side of your seams making sure you drill into your cross boards ( you will be on top of the roof so you will be able to see where each cross board is by pushing down on the metal (it wont push down where the board is) also try to keep the screws an even distance from the ridges and pretty much centered on the cross board, even on top of the roof you can see large variations and a straight line looks more professional)

MOST ImPORTANT-------- if you miss and screw through the metal without hitting the board beneath-- DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREW . i REPEAT LEAVE THE USELESS SCREW WHERE IT IS, because that screw is now effectively plugging the hole you just made in the roof, that 15 cent screw is much cheaper than an an entire new panel of roofing, or even worse a leaking roof.

Answer 8

Not recommended due to danger and tool requirements.

Answer 9

read the instructions on the wrapping.