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While different types of attic ladders and different manufacturers vary in installation methods, the basic process is the same.

Frame the opening

Drive nails through the ceiling from above to mark each corner of the rough opening. Snap chalk lines from nail to nail and cut the drywall along those lines.

If necessary cut one joist in two places 1½ inches back from either end of the rough opening, so the header material will be flush with the opening once installed. If the joist spacing does not require a joist be cut, then simply install two 2×10 header boards at either end of the rough opening.

Attach some scrap boards across the opening near the short ends to support the ladder during assembly. Screw the boards into the joists from below so you or a helper doesn't have to support the ladder's weight.

Installing the attic ladder

In the folded position, slide the ladder up into the opening onto the support boards. Make sure the unit is square, level and centered in the opening. Use shims between the ladder and joist, much like you would to square a door frame. Once the unit is in its final position, attach it to the joists with 16-penny nails or lag bolts through the ladder hinges following the manufacturer's directions.

Open the ladder to be sure it opens completely and the feet rest squarely and solidly on the floor. Most aluminum ladders come with adjustable feet that can be moved to assure solid floor contact. Wooden ladders require you to fold the bottom section back, measure the distance between the bottom of the second section and the floor, and then cut the bottom section to that length. You may have to re-install a bottom rung if you have to cut any significant length from the bottom section.

Install trim around the opening, install a pull cord, touch up any damaged spots with Spackle and/or paint and the attic ladder installation is complete.

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11y ago

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