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Because wooden fence will suck in the stain, you need to estimate more than the actual surface of the fence. You do not need to account the spaces inbetween the planks, as that´s your reserve, the wood will suck in as much.

So basically you manage just by measuring the length of the fence times the height of the fence and doubling that value (you want to stain both sides, yes?)

Depending on the darkness you want and the dryness (sucking capacity) of the wood you might even need to double or quadruple that.

You can calculate the EXACT surface area of the fence, if you want. But practice has taught me you will end up buying too little of the stain that way.

But for the curiosity sake, here's the formula:

spaces = measure one gap (height x width) and multiply it for the how many there are

actual surface area = ( (entire lenght of the fence - spaces) x (entire height of the fence) X ( thickness of the plank) ) X 2

If you have separate runners, support beams or decorations, you need to measure them same way and add to the above. It is enough you measure one and then multiply the result by 2 (both sides!) and then by the amount how many there is.

Because the suction of the stain, you need to multiple this result at least by 1.5. Read the instructions on your stain jar.

But, as I said, a rough estimate really is enough.

Remember, it is better to buy a lot excess at the beginning than go back mid-way your work. If the stain is factory made, the shade -might- be the same. But usually a big jar shop-mixed stain is not the same color as a small container that has been made with the same mixing formula. The formula has been made for large quantities, so the shade will not be the same in smaller measures. So, if you want your fence one-colored, plan ahead!

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11y ago

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