ON my '93, there is a button at the front base of the seat. You have to push the button into the seat (toward the back of the seat) and then the seat will swivel.
I am a separate person adding to this answer... on a Toyota Previa van (1993) the button you push in to swivel the middle seatsaround 180 degrees is right next to the lever you lift to move the seat itself forward and back at the base of the bottom of the front of the seat. The button is left of the lever as you face the seat. Once again... note: the button is on the bottom front of the seat near the middle, NOT on the sides or back of the seat.
You do a seat drop then swival into the other direction and do a seat drop on that side, all during one jump.
YOU CAN REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS WITHOUT REMOVING ANYTHING EXCEPT THE SPARK PLUG WIRES IN THE REAR USE A SWIVAL AND EXTENSION AND WORK ON BOTH SIDE AND THE MIDDLE OF THE PLETNIUM THE FRONT SPARK PLUGS NEED JUST TO REMOVE THE THREE COILS
The word swivel means that something swerved around something and made it turn
located under the hood and near the fire wall and it has a rod and a swival swith attached to it. its by the drivers side near the distributor.
loosen the bottom bolt with a 13 mm swival head socket, do not remove the bolt all the way, take out the top one and the thermostat housing will slide out and then remove the thermostat.
Just finished replacing fuel pump on my bronco 2 . Mine was a mechanical pump located on engine block behind and below power steering pump. Pain to get off without flex rachet extention or socket swival. Mine had NO fuel pump on it.
jack up the front ,put jack stands under it for safety. remove the front wheels,lift up the rubber flap,pull the wire off, change the plugs, reinstall the wires. you may need a swival socket for the back plugs or you can remove them from under the vehicle. it is not a 5 minute job.
the library has chilton repair manuals,i just copy the page,pages that i need for .10 cents a copy Changing the plug wires on an Aurora(I have a 1996) is really easy. Take the cover off the top of the engine. Remember the nuts are fragile and will crack because they are actually nut covers made of plastic. The firing order is cast onto the manifold at each plug location and the distributor has the numbers of them also. Use a swival type of plug remover that is rather long. The plugs in the back are the hardest to take out. But, if you take your time an use an extension with the plug socket on it and slide it into position. Then use the 3/8 drive breakover bar to loosen the plug. You should be able to get the plugs out. I buy my plugs and plug wires at O'reilly's. The plug wires are already numbered. Also I have found that using regular A/C plugs work the best and work longer.
With all of your covers off and the two (2) overhead sprockets exposed, make sure that your belt is facing the correct way , there are arrows on the belt and they should be facing away from the engine, then the timing marks will be in the right position. match the timimg belt marks to the timing marks on the overhead cam sprokets (note: put white out on the sprocket marks to make them more visable.) then loosen the tensioner which is to the left of the crank spocket, use an Allen wrench to swival the tensioner cam to allow more slack of the belt as you slip it over the crank sproket, make sure the marks match up. It may take a few tries turning the crank sprocket not all of the srockets. when tightining the belt tensioner make sure the Allen wrench hole is at 5:20 clock position and tighten the tensioner nut to secure the tensioner. That should be all that you need to do. before you put all of the covers back on start the car and turn off. If ithe car did not sound as if it got spark and did not start then A: your belt is not in line with the timing marks, even with only one mark off it will not start, check your marks lineup again. Make sure the ARROWS on the belt are pointing out towards the fender. if all is as it should be then replace your covers and your done. Good Luck.
one way is take it to an alignment shop and get the worn/damaged parts replaced and realigned. Is it front wheels or rear? One side or both? Do it at any speed or certain speeds? does it pull to one side when NOT "juddering"? I have the same problem but can describe it in more detail. 1. The problem normally appears at 60 km/h but gets worse at 80 km/h or more. 2. The patrol handles perfectly off-road and only suffers from this problem on the tarmac. 3. The problem is more likely to occur when the vehicle is going downhill. 4. The vehicle does not pull to one side when driving or under breaking. 5. During the vibration the vehicle keeps a straight course but will not stop juddering until the vehicle comes to rest. 6. The problem gets worse if the vehicle is cornering. 7. Juddering is normally provoked by passing over a dilatation joint crossing the road. 8. The juddering moves the front part of the vehicle from side to side and violently judders the steering wheel. It feels like you have a front wheel blow-out. If anyone can tell me what is wrong I'm sure it would help everyone else as well. This seems to be a pretty common problem. had the same problem - very frightening on a mountain road in Norway! make sure front wheels are balanced, but mine was solved by changing the steering damper. good luck! now if this is the same as i experienced on my range rover, then the answer could be the same..ie front swival pre load insuffient.cure on rangie, remove a shim or two..steering damper also known to cause this.. Good day I am in agreement with the above replace the steering damper and it would not do any harm to have the wheels balanced. A wobble around 80 kph is definitely wheel balacing and once the wobble gets started having a worn damper does nothing to stop the wobble Ernest