Check the Rodeo choke to make sure that is closes when its cold. A bad choke will give you starting problems in the cold.
change you thermostat it is stuck open or not closing fully. This allows the coolant to circulate to quickly.
a have problems to start when it is cold
Less performance, economy, harder to start cold.
Yes if ur car has many or some sort of engine problems
Change CHT sensor=Cylinder Heat Termo switch
4BD2TC 3.9D engine Inlet 0.40mm cold Exhaust .040mm cold.
0.16 cold both intake and exhouse
40 intake. N out. 0.40
A hard cold start on a 2001 Chevy Tahoe with a 5.3 liter engine can be caused by several factors, including a weak or failing battery, faulty fuel injectors, or issues with the fuel pump. Additionally, problems with the ignition system, such as worn spark plugs or ignition coils, can contribute to starting difficulties. Cold weather can exacerbate these issues, making it harder for the engine to start. Regular maintenance and timely replacement of worn components can help prevent cold start problems.
Cold Start Valve. Cold start valve. I do not believe there exists a "cold start valve"
Alot of cars have problems starting after a really cold night. The best thing I can suggest for you is if your remote start is programmable to start automatically over night and run for 15 mins every 1 or 2 hours or so. This way the fluids in the engine are alittle warm and thin rather than being real thick from the cold.
I have a similar problem...but doesn't answer your question. Perhaps some one in the "know" will answer both our questions. My 98 Isuzu rodeo will start up fine in the cold with a high idle but will quickly settle down when the engine warms up. Once the engine is warm it has a difficult time restarting. It will often fail to restart when warm on the first try. Always on the second try, the idle will hunt for a brief couple seconds and then find balance. The car runs great once balanced and has no other issues. Here's where we're the same. Resetting the IAC can preempt this problem. The SUV is in a "open loop" until the O2 sensors are warmed up so all idle problems stem from a couple sensors or fuel side problem. It could be a vacuum issue or EGR issue but in my case I tested both and all is fine. I get no codes. I may need to keep throwing sensors at it until it's gone. The MAP and Fuel pressure sensors are my next victims.