The stock wheel has a 55 mm positive offset. Positive offset means that the wheel is tucked into the fender well 55mm more than it would be if the bolt flange of the wheel were perfectly centered in the wheel. Negative offset means that the wheel will stick out of the fender well more.
So........ If you reduce (55mm-45mm) the positive offset my 10mm, your wheels and tires will stick out of your fenderwells 10mm further than the stock wheel, assuming that the aftermarket wheel is the same width as the stock wheel.
yes they will fit you just need a 8 or 8.5 inch wide wheel with high offset. the offset is very important if it is to low they will rub. 8 inch wide wheel i would go no lower that a +35 offset and on the 8.5 wheel i would go no lower than +38 offset.
ON automobile check turn clearence and fender well clearence
Wheel offset is not determined by the year, make and model of a car. It depends on the wheel you want to put on your car. Depending on the design of the wheel, the offset will vary. The stock "basketweave" wheels on the 2000 740iL is said to be about 22mm. Furthermore, you can mount wheels with different offsets by using appropriate spacers that would allow for larger offsets.
That would depend on the offset of the wheel you want to put on.
Single rear wheel 3500 rims are the same pattern and offset as 2500 rims, so they would fit. 3500 dual rear wheel rims have a different offset and do not fit.
Depends if it is a negative or positive offset. Rear spacing (or backspacing) is the distance between the wheel's inboard edge and its mounting pad. It can be measured by using a ruler and a straightedge set across the backside rim of the wheel. If you have a "positive" offset, the mounting pad is in front (or outboard) of the rim centerline. This situation most commonly occurs on front-wheel-drive applications. To picture this more accurately, think of the convex design of many wheels found on front-drivers; the center of the wheel sticks out further than the edges of the wheel. If there's a "negative" offset, the mounting pad is behind (or inboard of) the rim centerline. This is typical for most standard rear-wheel-drive vehicles and "reversed" rims. Sometimes, this style is referred to as a "deep-dish" wheel. For example, an 8-inch wide, 3-inch-rear spacing wheel would have a 1-inch negative offset. Conversely, if the same 8-inch wheel had a 5-inch rear spacing, it would then have a 1-inch positive offset. Finally, if the same wheel had a 4-inch rear spacing (which is exactly half its width) then the wheel would have what's known as a "zero offset." In wheel-measurement designations, the diameter is listed first, followed by the width. A 16x7-inch wheel has a diameter of 16 inches and a width of 7 inches. Diameter is measured where the tire rests, not from lip to lip.
yes it would
No! a 1987 cutlass is rear wheel drive, the van is front wheel drive....wrong offset.
I am no expert. But different selling markets have different offset as they do not have specific set of wheels to sell along with the vehicle. But anything from 35mm to 45mm would be fine. Try to see the offset value written on your stock wheel. If you are going for a bigger tire, max opt for an offset of 45 otherwise it will look damn ugly (as it will be outside of the fender area) and also rub the fender well on turns.
The stud pattern is how many bolts it has x the distance between two of the bolts across the face of the wheel. That would be on opposite sides, not the bolts that are next to each other. For example. A wheel with 4 studs that has a distance between bolts across the face of the wheel equal to 100mm would be a 4x100 pcd. To check the offset, you need to take off one of the wheels and look on the inside of the rim. There should be a small engraving telling you what the offset is.
Both the tire size and the rim offset will affect how far the tire "sticks out." Most stock wheels have a positive offset - which means the wheel centerline is inboard of the mounting surface. Therefore, a smaller offset would move the tire out of the wheel well rather than in. To try to avoid confusion, I will talk about a "more positive offset" to move the tire into the wheel well. The offset does not matter to the tire fitting on the rim, but fitting the tire/wheel on the vehicle is a different story... Using a rim with a more positive offset to move the tire deeper into the wheel well is usually not possible because you are more apt to cause rubbing between the tire and parts of the car (usually just sheet metal or plastic, but in more extreme cases, you could end up hitting "hard" components). You have to consider both steering motions and suspension related motions. Some old cars had of extra room, but newer vehicles (with the exception of some trucks and SUVs that are already designed for a larger than base tire/wheel) seldom have room to spare. Another consideration is that changing the offset will change the load on the wheel bearings (not so much a consideration with what you are asking as it is with moving the tire outward). This is not to say "don't do it," but just to caution you of some of the factors involved in your decision. More often, a less positive or more negative offset is used to pull larger tires out from the wheel well in order to prevent rubbing inside. If you were concerned about the tire sticking out, you would add fender flares or otherwise modify the existing fenders to cover the tires.
It effect the environment by changing how they would dress and maybe what job they may have