The best explanation for the battery light staying on is the battery may be losing it's charge due to either age/dead cell/wear.Also I suggest checking and cleaning your batteries terminals and the follow the ground wire to the fender and down to the subframe to the block and remove at each point and clean and reinstall.I would check the voltage after doing this at the battery with the truck OFF and it should show at least 12.5 volts average.With the truck running it should be at least 13.0volts if not it could be the alternator is going bad and can be bench tested (removed from vehicle) at auto zone or advance auto or just take the truck to either store and let them do a charging/voltage check with a machine for free which will specify the problem if you do not have the meter or tools to do it.I would still clean the terminals and even clean the alternator terminals (note remove the ground wire on the battery) to do this.Now the egr light has a simple correction.On the driver side at the kick panel(at the hood latch) look up laying down and look at the wiring harness above.Next look for a single wire brown in color that should be connected to a single wire that is brown/white.What you have to do is disconnect the brown wire and move to connect to the green wire(may look black) and that should clear the egr light on the dash being ON.If it comes on again later miles down the line switch the two wires back to as the were.I suggest removing the egr valve 3 ten mm bolts,one vac line,one electrical hook up and note the metal gasket position this is imperative.Clean the egr with carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush and even sandpaper a good cordless brush and remove the carbon buildup.I at times have used brake cleaner works better.This should clear the egr issue unless the egr rubber diaphragm is deteriorated and losing vacumm.You can see the rubber seal make sure it is not cracked or holes in it.Egr valves are not cheap for these trucks even today (rough cost 140.00 new) even at auto zone,napa etc.
where is the EGR valve on a 1989 mazda b2200
Who is a valve calibration for mazda b2200 1988
the valve lash for a 1985 Mazda 2.2 diesel is .012 in under cold conditions
according to a local dealer that model has no modulator valve on its automatic transmission sorry !
The vacuum control valve releases pressure in the float bowl under hot driving conditions. See the links below for additional information.
To remove the rocker arms on a 1992 Mazda B2200, first, ensure the engine is cool and disconnect the battery. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing the bolts, then carefully lift it off. Next, loosen the rocker arm bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping, and remove them along with any pushrods. Finally, take off the rocker arms from their shafts, noting their arrangement for reassembly.
The valve guides in the cylinder head wear out and oil gets sucked in and burned.
you don't the lash on a 90 model is not adjustable. the valves are hydrolic,unless they have been replaced with manual ones.
Mazda did make a 1993 b2300(it was a b2200 or b2600).However the answer is follow the upper radiator hose to the block near the valve cover.The upper radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing.Easy.
I believe that it is right on top of the valve cover, a (little short 90 degree hose) goes directly to the air cleaner. It comes out forward of the air cleaner.
Mazda did make a 1993 b2300(it was a b2200 or b2600).However the answer is follow the upper radiator hose to the block near the valve cover.The upper radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing.Easy.
To change the valve seals on a Mazda B2200, first, remove the valve cover and the rocker assembly. Then, use a valve spring compressor to carefully remove the springs and retainers, allowing access to the valve seals. Replace the old seals with new ones, ensuring they're seated properly, and reassemble by reversing the disassembly steps. Finally, reattach the valve cover and ensure all components are securely in place before starting the engine.