Yes. But it is really important to find out WHY the reservoir is only half-full!
Brake fluid doesn't evaporate as fast as water and anyway, if the reservoir cap was fully tight - so it couldn't spill out - it won't just evaporate away so there must a leak somewhere in one or more of your brake pipes or brake cylinders.
If you don't get it fixed, every time you press the brake pedal some brake fluid will be forced out through a hole in the brake pipe or out past the seals in one of your brake cylinders (or wherever the leak is) and you could suddenly run out of brake fluid and your brakes won't work any more. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION!
So by all means top it up with more of the right brake fluid - you must find out which type is right for your braking sytem - but also be sure to take your vehicle to a repair workshop to ask them to look for the leak.
Brake inspections are usually done free of charge, so go and have one done today.
Getting an inspection and any necessary brake repairs done could save your life and/or someone else's life if you were to suddenly find you can't stop because your brakes have stopped working!
The reservoir is behind the drivers seat mounted to the half wall. Keep it within 3/4" from the filler neck.
There may be a sensor located near the E brake lever that is stuck or the E brake needs adjustment so that the sensor reads the position of the release lever properly. If the E brake light is only half as bright as normal it indicates that you may be low on brake fluid in the reservoir or that the small plunger in the reservoir that drops as fluid level decreases is actually stuck down on the sensor inside the reservoir. Would be a good idea to get brake fluid renewed and check inside brake reservoir to ensure the small disk shaped plunger is floating at the right level with the fluid also being at the right level. If fluid is low, check brakes for excessive wear as they may need replacing.
If you have used the brakes it is BAD! Your will have to at least replace the master cylinder or even the porporting valve and or ABS valve depending on year and model of vehicle the transmission fluid will damage the seals and brakes will be spongey or even worse not work. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE. I you have not applied the brakes it can be repaired easelly get a turkey baster or some kind of suction device to remove the fluid from reservoir (get all you can get out), fill half full with proper brake fluid DOT 4 or 5 if vehicle is 2004 or newer use DOT 5, if older you can use DOT 4. Suck out fluid again and refill to full level on reservoir.
Standing in front of the vehicle, looking in to the engine compartment, the reservoir for the power steering is on the left side, about half way back. It is black in color, and has a twist off cap. Not to be confused with the brake fluid reservoir which is up near the firewall on the drivers side.
The 'horseshoe' is a depiction of a reservoir, probably your wiper reservoir, but possibly your radiator reservoir, which should be about half-full when cold.
Any engine needs to running, and at normal operating temperature, before ever checking the transmission fluid level. Checking this fluid without the engine running will give false readings indicating a full reservoir, when in fact if running, may not even be half full in some instances. Equally as bad as a half full transmission is one that is overfilled - too much of a good thing will also kill the transmission.
The pan (usually black in color) on the bottom of the transmission serves as a reservoir for transmission fluid. Keep in mind that that it holds only about half of the total transmission capacity.
Here are some easy steps to bleed the system.First make sure the clutch reservoir is full of fluid.Next on your bleeder container fill it half way with clean brake fluid.Next get under the truck with this and connect your line and open the bleeder and have a helper manually push the clutch pedal until the old fluid starts to flow into the container and air bubbles start.Do this until the container is almost full.Close the bleeder and recheck the reservoir and top it off(leave the cap on the reservoir off while doing this).Now go thru the same steps and this may take two to three times to clear the old fluid or air bubbles out of the line or system.Each time you fill the container empty the container to half full you are draining the old fluid into.This should not take longer than twenty minutes to do.I recommend having a can of brake cleaner to clean the area and tools you use.In my experience it take about 3 times of filling the container at the slave to clear the system and have nice clean fluid in the resevior.Never run the fluid empty in the clutch reservoir itself.I would buy a big bottle of dot 3 or 4 fluid are fine so you do not run out.Hope this is clear enough and a easy process.Note if the slave cylinder is leaking fluid due to wear replace it,unless you did replace it or the fluid is black and you are just flushing the system.Ok
Dot 3 brake fluid is just fine and safe.
If the motor is working check the hydraulic fluid level in the boot which is attached to the motor - if this reservoir is not at least half full there wont be enough power to move the hood into place. If there is fluid in the reservoir, run the motor and if this fluid level does not temporarily decrease, the pump ain't pumpin the fluid! Usually this is due to broken impeller blades in the pump - cheaper fix from dealer than a new pump thankfully. However, its probably the fluid levels. Check for leaks around the casing of the reservoir. New casings are cheap on eBay and easy to fit.
What I do is put half antifreeze and half water in to the radiator and keep putting more radiator fluid tell you see it in the neck of the radiator and put some radiator fluid in the coolant reservoir tank too.
you should consider changing your brake fluid every half an hour if you do not do this your car will seasup and will not be able to start your car u should alsio copnsider shagging your wife every now and then lol