On the 5.3 liter it is located on top side of block behind the intake manifold. Pull up to release top intake cover and pull towards you to remove. You will need a flathead screwdriver to loosen the 2 clamps holding intake air hose/piping between air filter box and throttle body. Next, remove fuel distributor vacuum hose to free up space and prevent from breaking plastic connectors. Reach behind from right side snaking behind rear plastic guard then go down feeling for sending unit electrical connector. It will be straight up & down...feel for connector release clip and pull outward with fingertip and at same time pulling upward removing connection. You will need a 1-1/16" deep socket, a universal or swivel adapter (for ratcheting at an angle" & a 6"-8" extension. Set-up as noted...socket,swivel adapter, extension, ratchet. Remove old sending unit and install replacent. Plug wire connector back in, connect vacuum hoses/connections you removed. Put back air piping and button everything back down where it goes. Have fun, it's really tight in there!!!!
You might ask, "Is this worth it or should I take it somewhere?" Cost for the part is ~$40 (Autozone), $80 @ dealer. Install is rated at 2 hours, so depending on your local rate, ~$120-$240. Total job estimates I got were $250-$300 (Twin Cities, MN).
All of above mentioned socket hardware is necessary, but I would recommend assembling the socket, the swivel, and the extender, and putting it into place on the sensor. I did not disconnect the vacuum line to the brake booster, or the fuel line, or the other line in there; the brake vacuum line clip is probably impossible to get off without taking the intake manifold off, though I tried. Ouch!!! The above mentioned plastic guard piece is in your way, with ignition wires and the vacuum line fed through it, and this will block your vision for the whole job. Fun!!!
To put the socket assembly in place, start to fit the socket assembly down and into the cavity with your right hand, after getting it started transfer the extender to your left hand. At this point you're in there laying on top of the motor, with your feet strategically placed not to put any weight on brake lines, hoses, etc. Guide the assembly with your right hand onto the sensor, while letting it down with your left hand. Make sure the socket stays loose on the part (not too far down), and then hook your ratchet onto the extender. I had to break the sensor free with a pipe extender on my ratchet, then loosened a little more with the ratchet. The sooner you can spin on the extender with your hand, the better - helps keep the socket loose. Mine got stuck, and after an hour+ of trying to remove it, finally was able to get it loose by seriously jiggling the extender until it all came out together - but not until after trying to pull it and having the swivel or extender pop out about 20 times. So, keep checking that you have the socket loose by getting your fingers under the socket edge and making sure it slides. Your legs should now be burning quite nicely.
This job takes patience, willingness to work without seeing what your doing, and probably takes 1-2 hours if you've ever done it before.
Last note: Autozone's part comes with the threads pre-sealant applied, pretty nice of them.
Now, if I can just get the check engine light to go off...
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban has a V8 engine.
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban has 16 valves.
Read the tire sticker in the driver's door jam, or look at the tire, all pressure are measured when tires are cold.
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban is a gas-powered vehicle.
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban has a 4-speed automatic.
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban has overhead valves (OHV).
Suburban Secrets was created in 2007.
Suburban Girl was created in 2007.
The maximum payload of the 2007 Chevrolet Suburban is 1593 lbs..
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban runs on regular unleaded.
The height of the 2007 Chevrolet Suburban is 6 ft. 4.8 in. (76.8 in.).
The 2007 Chevrolet Suburban has a 20.5 degrees angle of departure.