if there is a clutch adjustment on car, adjust the clutch if no adjustment, you will shortly need to replace the clutch
The real question is "what are you trying to adjust?" If you are looking to make your clutch petal shorter IE like a sport performance clutch you need a "quick clutch" master cylinder. Omni Power Performance has one of the best ones IMHO. If you are looking to change the engagement point well forget it, the engagement point is based of that master cylinder, if you get a quick clutch, you are either engaged (petal out) or disengaged (petal in). A standard master cylinder gives leeway on the engagement point based on the amount of fluid being pushed through the cylinder. Standard Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 15cm Omni Power Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 22
Well, I am in the process of figuring this out but, there is a threaded push rod attached to the clutch pedal which has a lock nut right at the back of the clutch where the rod attaches to the pedal. I assume that releasing the locking nut and rotating the push rod will adjust the pedal action up or down and change the engagement point. Looks pretty straight forward.
The clutch pedal has an assist spring and return spring. The assist spring tension must be adjusted to create a balance point at which the clutch pedal will over center and return to the fully disengaged position. It is also possible that the system may have air or the push rod attached to the pedal may be out of adjustment.
A biting point is the point at which the clutch engages in a car when the pedal is released.
did you ever get the noise figured out?, mine just started doing the same thing today
At the friction point
Something is installed incorrectly. Most likely you did not install the "Pull clutch" properly. With a 1997 Rodeo clutch, the release bearing actually snaps into the ring in the clutch, and when the clutch is depressed the release bearing pulls the clutch, rather than the standard "Push clutch" model. So, when you are depressing the pedal, the clutch is not being pulled away, giving you the hard pedal feel. Make sure when installing your release bearing that you remove the small ring from the back of the connector ring on the clutch before you insert the release bearing, and then snap it back on after the release bearing is completely installed or the clutch will not work properly.
The clutch pedal usually squeaks where the clutch pedal is mounted under the dash. The clutch pedal pivots at its mounting point so it probaly just needs some lubed sprayed on it.
The clutch arm is like a teeter-todder. The clutch arm sits on a pivot point in the transmission bell housing and disengages the clutch by pushing down on the pressure place through a "throw out" bearing when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
It doesnt point anywhere it is constantly rotating. But it is pulled by the earth.
Clutch slip is unavoidable. Its a part of driving a manual car, and is required in techniques such as moving off from a standing start. It happens at the clutch's biting point.
The torque converter and clutch are the point where the engine and the transmission engage.