just another way to bypass the regulator to see if the regulator is bad. I dont recommend doing this just in case you have bad wires it might pump the 13.9 volts directly into your system which might cause a electrical fire. Just check the voltage with a mulimeter and see if its pumping out volts. if it isnt.... replace.
This is a dual-field alternator, they both are field connections.
It is the wire that supplies the initial field current to the alternator from the battey. Once the alternator is rotating the field current will be provided by the diodes from the current produced by the alternator. excitor wire is usually wired through the charging indicator light.
2 wire has a live wire to energise the field where as the single wire alternator self energises and does not need the powered feed.
The third wire is for whats called the sensing or pre-excitation circuit. This wire supplies the initial current from the battery to the alternator's field coil that starts the buildup of the magnetic field that allows the alternator to start producing current.
There should be a heavy wire called the Alternator output wire, It carries power from the alternator to power your accessories and to maintain your battery. The smaller wires usually in a plug are either the alternator's voltage sense, Stator/ACurrent/Tachometer output, regulator/indicator light. or if its an Externaly regulated alternator they will be alternator Field, Stator/ACurrent/Tachometer. hope this helps
To wire a 3-wire alternator, connect the first wire (usually labeled "B" or "BAT") to the battery positive terminal to provide power. The second wire, often labeled "F" or "Field," goes to the voltage regulator to control field current, while the third wire, labeled "S" or "Sense," connects to the battery or the output terminal to monitor the voltage level. Ensure all connections are secure and insulated to prevent short circuits. Always refer to the specific wiring diagram for your alternator model for precise connections.
run it and then disconnect the negative wire from the battery if alternator dies its bad.
If you have a new alternator its as simple as run the one wire to the solenoid. If you are converting the alternator to a one wire, you will need an external regulator. If you have a new alternator its as simple as run the one wire to the solenoid. If you are converting the alternator to a one wire, you will need an external regulator.
To hook up an alternator in a Chevelle, first ensure the battery is disconnected for safety. Connect the positive terminal of the alternator to the battery's positive terminal, and the negative terminal to the car's ground. Then, connect the field wire or the voltage regulator wire to the appropriate terminal on the alternator. Finally, secure the alternator properly and reconnect the battery before testing the system.
To wire the alternator on a Ford 302, first connect the positive terminal of the alternator to the battery's positive terminal using a thick gauge wire. Next, connect the alternator's field terminal (often labeled "F" or "I") to the ignition switch or a voltage regulator, depending on your system. Finally, ensure that the alternator's ground is securely connected to the engine block or chassis. Always consult the specific wiring diagram for your model year for precise connections.
a bad ground wire can ruin an alternator by not completing the circuit
On a 1987 Nissan Maxima, the alternator battery terminal typically connects to the positive battery cable. Additional wires, such as the field wire (often a smaller gauge wire) and the warning light wire, should also be connected to the appropriate terminals on the alternator. The field wire usually connects to the "F" or "S" terminal, while the warning light wire connects to the "L" terminal. Ensure all connections are secure and that the wiring is in good condition to avoid electrical issues.