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The normal method for controlling output of an alternator is to vary the field current. In a PM alternator, there would be no field windings to control. The only way I could think of would be to vary the speed of rotation. This might work if the output was rectified (DC), but would be a problem if the output is AC, since the frequency would also change. I have not seen a PM alternator per se. Unusual.
I have a 2.0 1995 Mercury mystique the battery charge light was on no output on old alternator. Replaced alternator No output from new alternator "charge light out" (wiggle test wires& re-check wires) at alternator *still no output* is there a fuse that could be the problem or just another bad alternator... I would check the alternator plug before getting another alternator, it may be bad. And is a lot cheaper to replace.
The most likely cause is the voltage regulator in the alternator. Modern vehicle voltage regulators aren't serviced separately, so you would just replace the alternator. That much voltage can boil the battery. Typical alternator output should be around 14.5 volts.
Bearing in: Alternator? Water pump? A/C Compressor? Belt tensioner?
The battery light comes on when the alternator output voltage is too low or too high. You have a wiring or regulator problem.The battery light comes on when the alternator output voltage is too low or too high. You have a wiring or regulator problem.
There would be no rectified output. The transformer primary has to be closed to induce a current into the secondary winding. At this point of the secondary the voltage is still AC. This voltage is then applied to the rectification bridge to change it to DC. So you can see how no voltage on the primary, the same as the unit being unplugged, affects the output voltage.
You can do this although,Why would you want to? If you need extra power from the alternator then you can buy an alternator that has a higher output. Some cars do not allow you to upgrade to a higher output alternator though (My Mazda Protege5) In this case things get a little more complicated..... You must customize a mount for the second alternator (I removed my AC pump and put alternator there) This way I did not need another belt etc. Just had to make a custom mounting bracket. Then you will need to wire it up, which would be specific to your application.
i presume you are talking about the rectifier regulator and the answer is no it would not charge a battery without this if you don't know what the part is i dought you will be able to know what is wrong with your alternator you could have winding problems or brush problems also
i would think it should put out from 12 to 15 volts.you will need to check output also with lights on an if it drops in voltage you probably have a bad alternator,most auto parts stores can test the system for you.
The ABS system requires 10.5 volts to operate, so if the charging output of the alternator was below this level, the ABS light would come on, and the ABS system would shut down. If the output is far below this level (say, zero, if the alternator failed), your battery would not charge, and the car wouldn't start. Have your charging system checked.
No, the fuse for the alternator on a 1998 Ford F-150 would not be a 25 amp. It would most likely be a 20 amp.?æ
The vehicle should ave a voltage regulator. If the battery and alternator are good then the regulator is most likely bad.