Pictures of the thermostat housing location, on a 1998 Cummins diesel engine, can be found at most, heavy duty truck dealerships. The pictures can also be found at many auto-parts stores.
in the end of the radiator hose on the block.
I do!
I got on motorcraft.com and looked at the picture for the thermostat on a 2001 Ford Ranger 2.3 L - DOHC . It looks like the thermostat is electrically operated and it's shown mounted in a housing ( Motorcraft part number RT 1157 )
You may be able to find an exploded view of the Cummins ISM EGR system in the official service manual provided by Cummins, or by contacting a certified Cummins dealer. Exploded views typically detail each component and their connections within the system for analysis and repair.
Drain the cooling systemFollow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostatCompress the hose clamp with pliers then slide clamp away from thermostat housingRemove the bolts and detach the housing cover.Stuff rag into the engine opening and remove all traces of old gasket.So, I have a question about an 87 Honda Accord. During the winter (Colorado) I started my car and blew a bolt off the thermostat housing that connects it to the engine... I'm not sure what that part is, or how to fix it, but I would really like to fix it. Do you know what that part is called? Or is it just connected and I would need a whole new engine? Again it's the part between the engine and the thermostat housing.... The bolt busted out and broke the loop that it was put into to hold the thermostat to the engine... ANYONE?
The Thermostat on a 2000 Chevy Venture is located on the drivers side of the engine, it is mounted under the throttle-body of the fuel-air intake, u can follow the hose up to it, I have changed mine two time, although the throttle-body must be removed to access the Thermostat, and there are only three screws holding the thermostat housing on, it is somewhat hard to get at and I suggest that only someone who is familiar with working on cars try it.
It is important to find not only the right fit for your father, but also one that is highly recommended. There are many sources that are available and provide comprehensive information by State. For example, seniorliving.org/housing provides information based on location as well as the type of senior housing facility that your father may need - from general senior housing to assisted living.
I have a schematic from Monaco but it is too small to read. Russell@rfcellutions.com
Here is a link to an autoMedia.com's autoCare article which should be helpful. http://www.automedia.com/autoCare/ccr20041201th/ccr20041201th.asp?affid= This is a very easy repair. Most anyone can do it. As always, unhook the negative cable from your battery. Then drain some of the coolant from your radiator. Tighten the draincock after you do. Turn that coolant in for recycling. Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. The thing it's hooked to is the housing for the thermostat. It's in three pieces; the thermostat is in the outermost one. Remove this piece. Look at how the thermostat is oriented in the housing, because it goes back the same way as it came out, and then remove the thermostat. When you buy your thermostat, always get a new gasket. You put the gasket on the thermostat, put the thermostat in the housing, and put the housing back on the engine. Torque it to 7 lb-ft and you're almost done. Next, use a 12mm deep well socket to loosen the bleeder bolt. This is on top of the thermostat housing, between the coolant temperature sender (for the gauge) and the thermowax sensor (for the fuel injection system). It looks like a silver bolt with a nipple sticking up out the middle of it, and it's the only thing on there that doesn't have wires coming out of it. Anyway, loosen this up about a half-turn or so. Open the radiator cap and start pouring either "all makes all models" antifreeze, or "Honda Genuine" antifreeze, into the radiator until some comes out of the bleeder bolt. Close the bleeder bolt, put the radiator cap back on, hook the battery back up, and you're done.
One can go to his or her local Dodge dealer to see if there is a Dodge Cummins 4x4 for sale. One can also check Trovit, CarGurus, and Auto Trader to see if anyone is selling this car.
I had the same problem, cured it with a new thermostat! If you are mildly handy you can replace it yourself. Thermostats usually cost less than $10-$15 (make sure to get the gasket with it). To find the thermostat housing follow the top radiator hose back to the engine. The housing that the hose is connected to is the housing. It's held on with 2 metric bolts, you will probably need a deep socket, I think there is a pin on the top of one bolt. If you move quickly you can replace the thermostat with out drain the radiator some (make sure the new gasket is in place prior to starting). Once the new thermostat is in place and the housing is tight you will need to start the engine and let it warm up. While it's warming up add some antifreeze mix to the overflow container to replace what you lost. Once the engine is warm, excess air needs to be bleed off. To do that open the brass valve on the thermostat housing a bit. Once antifreeze starts coming out close it. I generally wait a couple of minutes and repeat the procedure. To you lurkers who are in the know, did I leave anything out?
I HAVE A 1993 LEXUS ES300, AND THE OTHER DAY IT WAS RUNNING PRETTY HOT, AND THE ONLY THING I COULD THINK THAT IT WAS, HAD TO BE EITHER THE THERMOSTAT OR THE FAN WASN'T KICKING ON. SO I TOOK APART THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND FOUND THAT SOMEONE BEFORE ME HAD JUST LEFT THE HEAD OF THE THERMOSTAT AND CUT AWAY THE SPRING AND THE REST OF THE THERMOSTAT, LEAVING THE WATER TO FLOW FREELY, I GOT SOME ADVICE ON THAT AND FOUND THAT PUTTING A BRAND NEW THERMOSTAT MIGHT REALLY MAKE IT OVERHEAT, SO I LEFT THAT ALONE. BUT WHILE I HAD IT OPEN, I TOOK THE HOUSING AND THE PIPE CONNECTED TO IT AND CLEANED IT REAL GOOD, AND I ALSO CLEANED THE COOLING SENSOR THAT PLUGS IN AT THE TOP OF THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING, PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER AND STARTED HER UP AND NOTICED THE FAN WAS WORKING NOW WOOO HOOOO! BUT JUST LIKE THAT MY JOY WAS TAKEN AWAY AGAIN WITH A NEW LEAK. IT WAS NOW LEAKING WATER, WHERE THE ALUMINUM PIPE FITS INTO THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND THEN THE END OF THAT CONNECTS TO THE BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE. WELL GUESS WHAT I HAD TO TAKE IT ALL APART AGAIN TO GET TO THAT PIPE, SO I FINALLY TOOK THE PIPE OFF, CLEANED IT UP REAL GOOD AND PUT SOME SILICON AROUND IT AND INSTALLED IT AGAIN, AND WAITED FOR ABOUT AN HOUR TO SEE IF IT WOULD HELP IT SEAL, WELL I STILL HAVE A LEAK AND NOW I GOT A HEADACHE TO ADD TO IT.....CAN ANYONE OUT THERE HELP ME OUT? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THANKS.... \ SINCERELY, DAZED AND CONFUSED