If you are talking about the crankshaft rod bearings, you can just remove the oil pan, and replace each crank bearing one at a time without actually removing the pistons. But to replace the piston pin rod bearings the pistons will have to be removed. IMO, if any of these bearings are worn bad enough to need replacing, then the engine needs a complete overhaul.
It all depends on the bearings that you need to replace! Get some quotes! If it is bearings inside the engine, then the mechanic you go to is going to have pull the engine anyways, so if there are no other problem with your engine but some bearings then i would just have the bearing replaced, but if you have other problems due to the bearings going out, then i would replace the engine. Hope i helped
Just remove pan and change bearings.
You have to remove and disassemble the engine to replace the crankshaft.If you mean the crankshaft position sensor, then yes. You access it from underneath. It is just above the oil pan on the back of the block.You have to remove and disassemble the engine to replace the crankshaft.If you mean the crankshaft position sensor, then yes. You access it from underneath. It is just above the oil pan on the back of the block.
When rebuilding an engine, you MUST replace all bearings and re-grind all rods. if you just try to polish out the scratches, it can allow the crankshaft to travel, causing minor vibrations at least, if not a valve strike, which is devastating for an engine.
Unfortunately, there is no simple way to replace main bearings.The main bearings support the crankshaft as the engine is running. Technically, the crankshaft is never supposed to be in contact with the bearing. As the engine runs it drives the oil pump which moves a relatively small amount of oil and is supposed to maintain about 30 to 60 PSI of oil pressure. The crankshaft "floats" on a film of pressurized oil and the crankshaft and bearings SHOULD never wear out if the oil pressure is maintained and if the oil is changed according to schedule.If/when the main bearing wears out the gap between the bearing and the crankshaft becomes great enough that a relatively large volume of pressurized oil leaks past the bearing and the pump will be unable to maintain the necessary pressure.So...To replace the main bearings you need to remove the crankshaft, and typically that means to pull the engine. While it is sometimes possible to pull the crankshaft while the engine is in place, usually the problems end up being far worse than just pulling the engine, and the potential for damaging other components is quite high.After the crankshaft is removed, examine the bearing surfaces. You'll find that worn bearings will be a different color than good bearings. As the babbitt surface wears through (it's only a couple thousandths of an inch thick) you get down to the copper (typically) surface.Any worn bearings, rod or main, should be replaced, and if you're replacing any rod bearings, replace them all; same with mains... but don't be in too big of a hurry just yet. Next, take the crankshaft to a machine shop and have them use a micrometer on each "journal" to make sure they are all "round" and within specifications. Journals that are worn can either be too small or worn out of round. In either case you need to make sure the surfaces are within specifications before re-assembling the engine.While the engine is apart, make sure you check the head for worn valves, and check the cylinders for wear. There's no point in reassembling a worn engine.Now for a little unsolicited advice: if the main bearings are worn you can often get many thousands of additional miles out of an engine by just switching to a heavier grade (thicker) oil. If you've been using 5W15, change to 10W30 or even 20W50. That single step can get you out of an expensive rebuild and keep the engine running for a long time.
It is mounted just above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine.It is mounted just above the crankshaft pulley on the front of the engine.
Its a loud Knocking sound. sounds like some one is in your engine with a hammer just beating the heck out of the inside of the motor. The Knock is slow at idle then speeds up when the RPMs increase. means Crankshaft bearings are bad and crankshaft is ka put. David G
....At the very least, replace the crankshaft and bearings (rods and mains) At the most, rebuild the entire engine. It won't crank because when you drove it with out oil, the bearings on the rods, (most likely) or the main bearings got so hot, they melted or "tack welded" themselves to the crankshaft. When you turned off the engine, the weld completed its self thus preventing free rotation of the crank. I probably shouldn't have to tell you that continuing to drive with out oil damaged the engine. You already figured that one out! And, unfortunately, it will cost you a truck load to fix it.
If you're saying that the engine has been repaired with only a crank and bearings... there is no break in period necessary. The break in procedure allows piston rings to properly seat and to a lesser degree, it allows lifters to seat to the camshaft. If you've replaced none of those items you don't have a break in concern. Technically, when an engine is running properly, oil pressure is up and nothing is worn, the bearings never actually touch the crankshaft. The pressurized oil holds the bearings away from the crankshaft and they could theoretically last indefinitely provided that you could keep clean oil flowing. I'd just drive it normally. That's a tough engine and if you only needed to replace the crank and bearings I'd guess it ran out of oil. The bad news is, if it ran out of oil there is a real possibility that a rod or main journal overheated and "stretched", meaning that it may be slightly out of round. The new crankshaft and bearings could have problems if the rods weren't reconditioned and the block wasn't checked and possibly align bored.
It is just about the hardest most difficult part of an engine to replace. The engine has to come out. The head has to be taken off. The rod of the piston has to be disconnected from the crankshaft. the top of the cylinder has to have a ridge reamer operated on it to get the piston out.
That requires a SPECIAL TOOL to remove and install the cam bearings correctly. It will be hard to find someone that has that tool, and let you use it. You need to just take the engine to a machine shop and let them do it for you. It may cost about 25.00$ plus the bearings.