Chevy did not use a crankshaft sensor in 1995.If it won't fire then I would check the ignition module in the distributor and more then likey replace it. Also check the ignition coil and WIRE / coil wire.
To test the ignition coil of a Kawasaki Rouser 135, you can use a multimeter to check the resistance between the primary and secondary windings. Compare the reading to the manufacturer's specifications to determine if the ignition coil is functioning correctly. You can also visually inspect the coil for any physical damage like cracks or corrosion.
The easiest way to test ignition coils on a 1992 Mustang 2.3 is to use an ohmmeter on the leads going into the coils.
the lowest
One way to check the CDI on an alternator is to use an ohmmeter. If you do not know how to use an ohmmeter, you may be better off by taking your vehicle to a repair shop to look at the alternator.
On my 90 740gl it is right next to the ignition coil. It depends on the ignition system used. On a Regina ignition, I think everything is built in the coil (The big square one) The regular round coil is for BOSCH ignition and a separate module is use. NOT SURE, would appreciate confirmation.
The following is for older engines that use "points": One side of the coil should be "hot" when the key is on and the other side should be pulsing when the engine is turned over. When the points close, one side of the coil is "pulled to ground". First, check that you have voltage to the coil when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. Second, check that you have a good ground to the OTHER side of the coil when the points are closed. Today's solid state ignition systems are similar, but use transistors instead of a physical switch (points) that needs to be changed periodically. If it's computer controlled, check the diagnostic code.
You'd have to describe the components you replaced. Did you use a plug and go all in one distributor or did you replace the coil, distributor, and add an electronic ignition unit? If you "fried" your ignition, it's likely you fried something else along the line too. Check all your components.
An ohmmeter is used to check continuity and resistance. An unfavorable use would be to connect the meter to any power. Unless the meter has a safety feature, connecting it to any type of power will damage the meter.
To check the voltage going to the coil, use a multimeter set to the appropriate voltage range. Connect the positive lead of the multimeter to the terminal of the coil and the negative lead to a good ground point. With the ignition turned on (or while the engine is running), read the voltage displayed on the multimeter. Ensure the voltage is within the specified range for proper coil operation.
In order to test a moped coil you need to use an ohmmeter. First you test the primary coil by touching the leads (2 wires with points on the ends that come off the ohmmeter) to the positive and negative terminals on the coil. The spot for the spark plug wire is not a terminal used for testing the primary coil. If your coil only has one terminal, other than the one for the spark plug, then the mounting hole is the other terminal. When you put the ohmmeter across these two points your reading should be less than 3 ohms. If the primary windings in the coil are fried, this reading is normally really high. The most common problem is the secondary windings. After testing the primary, you then need to test the secondary windings. To do this you touch one lead off your ohmmeter to the spark plug terminal and the other to one of the primary terminals. Your reading should be right around 10,000 ohms. It will most likely read 10K. It does not matter which primary terminal you use. It also does not matter which lead you use where. (When testing ohms the red and black leads are identical and the colors are not a factor.)
Maybe, but not sure info would be useful. You can use ohmmeter to check that a tube's filament is intact. Broken/burned-out filament is most likely reason for dead tube.