0
I am not sure of the specs for this engine, but being pre fuel injection and computers you should be safe with 5 degrees advanced.
You could go as high as 10, but beware pinging ( detonation or knocking ) as the fuel octane rating is lower now than in 1982 due to lead being removed.
Pinging is the rattling sound that you get when in too high a gear with the accelerator pedal well down.
i.e you should be in 1st gear and you are in 3rd trying to accelerate out of a corner.
If you hear this sound either your timing is too far advanced, you have a lot of carbon build up in the cylinder (raising the compression ratio ), or the fuel is too low an octane.
Running 96 instead of 91 is the quick fix, and will give you more power, but really you should retard the timing a couple of degrees and test.
Trial and error will get you there eventually.
Remember when setting timing, disconnect the vacuum advance hose and plug it. Set the rpm to the correct speed, and alter it as you go because changing timing will affect idle speed.
The distributor also has a centrifugal advance which is counter weights which are spring loaded, and to high an idle speed will cause these to advance the timing.
Also if you have points USE A DWELL METER.
The gap is just not an accurate enough way to measure points setting.
Make sure if you change points you properly wash off all the preservative wax on the new ones.
It causes them to burn out very quickly if left on.
I realize you wanted just a setting, but from experience with old cars there is more to it than just applying the factory setting. More things are involved, and old cars are a pain to work on as the previous mechanic was probably also a novice working on their own car.
Try 5 degrees before top dead center ( BTDC ) but be aware that this is just a starting point.
If timing is close, but it still won't run properly take off the distributor cap, and try to wiggle the main shaft which runs down into the engine.
If it seems loose then the bearings are worn.
Get another distributor.
Note, wind the engine to top dead center,, and mark the position off the rotor, and take a photo.
The new dizzy must go in the exact same position!!!
Unless the previous mechanic put it in the wrong position...
LOL you must be sick of reading by now, but too much information is never enough.
What else can I help you with?
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