Refuse and demand your rebate. You signed a contract that not only you have to live with but so does the dealer. The contract works both ways and all you have to do is say NO!
no
it is where you purchase something and they give you a "rebate" you mail that rebate and get money back. it's like a backend coupon, instead of getting savings up front you get it later.
Whether or not doing a Sprint rebate is "worth the hassle" is kinda subjective. It depends on the dollar value of the rebate, whether you are willing and able to put in the possible time and effort that might be required to get that rebate, and how much you value your actual and possible time spent versus the dollar value of that rebate. Whatever the case, if you decide to do the rebate, make copies of everything, in case you need to refer to it later or resubmit.
You will have to take it to a factory dealer and have them run it for you. There is no info on decoding a 9 digit, only the 17 digit vin number's (1983 or later).
The dealer typically never signs the contract when the customer does. The dealer principal does quite often. Sorry this is not a loophole, its still a binding contract. However if you signed an open contract where it doesn't say what bank anywhere on the contract its assigned to then a very good lawyer can help you. Sometimes dealers can have you sign a contact without getting an approval from a bank first so they can leave that part out for them to hand write it in later.
The question is a bit confusing. When purchasing a car from a dealership, the transaction is by contract. Once the contract is signed, the contracted price is the price. There is no changing of minds later. If, as is not unusual, the dealer sent you with the vehicle to return at a later date to sign the contract, and then changed the price, this could be an attempt at fraud. Get the change in writing, do not sign anything, and take your evidence directly to an attorney who specializes in consumer fraud.
The car dealership keeps the contract. However, since the car dealer gets paid by its financier to have fully paid for the car, then the financier keeps the contract and later gives it the car owner upon final payments have been completed by the owner buyer.
If you buy a product they sometimes offer mail-in-rebate forms. If you fill out these forms EXACTLY and mail in the UPC and receipt, they will send you a check a few months later for a rebate--usually ranging from 5-100$. Keep records of everything (scanned documents) before you send it.
What do they want to change about the contract?
If it is a used vehicle in South Dakota, and the contract states that you bought it "as is", you can not return the vehicle. Unless you were somehow misled as to the deal, the vehicle, or the contract, and can prove it, you can not return the vehicle.
Yes the dealer sends your signed contract on to a loan broker possibly the company that makes the vehicle and they in turn run a credit report if your credit is not up to the standards for a zero percent loan it is not accepted you in turn do not have to purchase the vehicle since the terms you signed for are not accepted the contract is void. Let the dealer lower the price to you or go someplace else to purchase.
Please read the papers you signed. They loikely state that the payments set forth are CONDITIONAL upon the dealer finding a lender that will take the contract as written. YOUR credit Report will have a lot to do with that happening. Maybe no lender wants to finance you at that amount based on your CR.