It's not really that big a job, but it's a little more challenging than changing your oil. You won't need any special tools other than a torque wrench and Autozone will loan you one. You'll want a scraper, some acetone, I like to have some fine sand paper for cleaning the gasket surface, a tap for the bolt holes, a die for the manifold bolts, and basic hand tools. It's not brain surgery! If you get a Chilton or suitable DIY manual, it's pretty easy to follow. There are however, a few points that the manual will mention, but the novice will overlook. Mark your tubes and wires before you remove them. I suggest marking the distributor end of the plug wires. A trick I've used is to take a few digital pics while I disassemble. For example the manifold bolts are not uniform in length or purpose. You'll need to come up with your own way to get them back in the right holes.
The manifold itself doesn't leak, but the gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads and the engine block does. The gasket is subjected to alot of thermal expansion and contraction and over time, fails to retain the sealing capabilities needed to prevent leaks. One note. If you have a large oil leak, check the oil pump drive oring for being the problem, not the intake. The oring tends to dry out and not seal. Typically, it will leak alot of oil when the engine is cold, but slow down once warm.
Either a leaking intake manifold or a blown head gasket. You can take it to a repair shop and have a block test done. That will tell you if it is a head gasket. DO NOT drive anymore than needed as the water will destroy the engine bearings.
The cost to replace the intake gasket on a 1997 Pontiac Transport typically ranges from $300 to $600, depending on labor rates and whether any additional repairs are needed. This estimate includes both parts and labor, with the gasket itself usually costing between $30 and $100. It's advisable to get a detailed quote from a mechanic to account for any specific issues your vehicle may have.
The removal and reinstallation of an intake manifold on this FWD transverse application is of Êhigh difficulty. The first steps are disconnecting wiring harnesses, and brackets obstructing the manifold bolts. Once the manifold bolts are off, the factory gaskets should be removed and surfaces cleaned off. The manifold can be run through a parts cleaner to dissolve carbon deposits. The new gasket and sealer as needed should be applied. The manifold can be replaced and re-torqued. The final steps are reconnecting wiring harnesses, restarting and checking for leaks.
The PCV vacuum supply hose is located under the intake manifold. It is not uncommon for this hose to tear and create a vacuum leak. Removal of the intake manifold is needed in order to get access to this hose as there is not enough room to get hands or tools into that small area.
The intake manifold runner on a 2004 Ford Freestar is located on the engine's intake manifold, which is situated on the top of the engine. The runners are part of the manifold assembly that directs air to the engine cylinders. To access them, you typically need to remove the air intake duct and possibly the throttle body, depending on the specific repair or inspection needed.
A service manual is needed especially for tightening the intake manifold bolts back into place in the correct pattern. There are many steps, starting with releasing the pressure in the fuel system and disconnecting the battery. Then you need to remove the throttle body, fuel lines, electrical connections, etcetera to get to the intake manifold. Once the manifold is removed you will be looking into the lifter valley of the motor, make sure to vacuum out any residue and stuff with rags to scrape any old gasket surface off, but do not scratch anything up. The manual will help you determine where to run your sillicone, and when you put the manifold back into place you'll want to hit it dead on to avoid having to move it around. You'll then tighten the bolts on in the pattern indicated to the torque needed. You will need an inch lb. torque wrench. When you get it all back together it's good to leave the key in the on position to get some fuel back in there before you fire er up.
Sounds like you might be talking about the heat riser passages that provide heat for the automatic choke (if equipped). Not needed for carbs with manual choke or heat stove-type pulloffs.
replacing the Intake manifold gasket is Avery detailed process. Which includes unhooking alot of wire harnesses, removing all the accessorie brackets on the front of the engine( alt, p/s, a/c,) and in some cases the a/c has to be drained and refilled.The distributor has to be removed and you have to have a scanner to set the timing when your finished. All the manifold bolts have to be tightened to a specific torque. Specials tools are needed for these repairs.This is not one of thpse repairs the average person should attempt. One misstake and you could very easily ruin the motor. If you still wish to try this repair invest in a Haynes repair manual, you can get them at any AutoZone and all the infermation you'll need will be in there, including the torque specs. sgi.
It should only be needed for the end rails.
To replace the head gasket on a 1990 Ford Bronco II with a 2.9L engine, begin by disconnecting the battery and draining the coolant. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, as well as the cylinder heads, which involves unbolting them and carefully lifting them off the block. Clean the surfaces thoroughly, apply new gasket material as needed, and then reinstall the heads, torqueing the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Finally, reassemble the intake and exhaust manifolds, refill the coolant, and reconnect the battery.
Set of 8 (eight) hydraulic lifters, $155, labor 6 hours@$75/hr= $ 605. There will probably more costs, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, and most shops and dealers add a surcharge for hazardous material disposal i.e. lost fluids during job, and cost of fluid(s) needed to replace what was lost. Best estimate is $700 shop, $1200 Dealer