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What else can I help you with?
Are daguerreotypes transferred to paper or is the finished product the copper plate?
paper
French inventor of an early photographic process in 1839?
Louis Daguerre introduced daguerreotypes in 1839.
Are daguerreotypes rare?
No, they are not rare but they are collected. Depending upon subject matter, the values vary but none are cheap any more.
What were pictures called back in the American Civil War?
You may be referring to daguerreotypes, invented by Louis Daguerre around 1826, which became popular around the 1830s to the 1860s.
What are the key differences between a daguerreotype and a tintype in terms of their photographic processes and characteristics?
A daguerreotype is an early form of photography that uses a silver-coated copper plate to create a unique image. It produces a sharp and detailed image with a mirror-like surface. On the other hand, a tintype is a later form of photography that uses a thin sheet of iron coated with a dark lacquer to create a positive image. Tintypes are more durable and easier to produce than daguerreotypes, but they have a lower image quality and lack the reflective surface of daguerreotypes.
Who. Invented. Camera?
I believe it was Louis Daguerre who is largely credited as the inventor of the process and apparatus to take "Daguerreotypes". This apparatus was the precursor to, and may be considered one of the first, cameras. At least that's what I was taught in high school.
What were Daguerreotypes made of?
Daguerreotypes were made of copper plates coated with silver. The plates were dipped in an iodine fluid, which created the silver-halide "silver iodide." Silver halides are silver molecules bonded with halogens (elements that end in "-ine"). Silver bromide and silver chloride are also silver-halides. Why make a silver-halide? Because these compounds have a property of photosensitivity (light sensitive). As this coated plates dried, they were exposed to light, hence the reason for the silver compound. Afterwards, they were coated again, this time with mercury heated to 75 degrees Celsius. Finally, they are put in salt water to finish (this part I don't know why it's done...). The final picture was usually put in a glass case to protect it; oils produced by the skin can cause copper to corrode. I hope this information was helpful. If you need more information, feel free to let me know.
What are the main differences between a tintype and a daguerreotype in terms of their photographic processes and characteristics?
A tintype is a photograph made on a thin sheet of metal using a wet collodion process, while a daguerreotype is an image produced on a silver-coated copper plate using a polished silver surface. Tintypes are more durable and easier to produce, while daguerreotypes have a higher level of detail and clarity.
What has the author Hans Hagedorn Thomsen written?
Hans-Heinrich Wilhelm has written: 'Die Einsatzgruppe A der Sicherheitspolizei und des SD 1941/42' -- subject(s): Holocaust, Jewish (1939-1945), Jews, Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiter-Partei, Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiter-Partei. Schutzstaffel. Sicherheitsdienst, Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiter-Partei. Schutzstaffel. Sicherheitspolizei, Persecutions, World War, 1939-1945
Who was the first president to be captured on moving film?
According to Jeopardy on June 21, 2009, the final Jeopardy clue was "Filmed signing a Bill into law, in 1895 he became the first U.S. President to appear on moving film" That answer: Who is Grover Cleveland?
If you want to paint on top of photographs what type of paint do you use?
I have no special knowledge in this area, but I once knew someone who used regular artists oil paints to paint on photographs. I would assume you could also use acrylic paints, except they dry faster making them a little harder to work with. Another Answer: The above is correct. Marshall's Photo Oils are a good place to start, but many media can be used to color or tint photographs, including but not limited to artist's oil paints, colored pencils, markers, pastels watercolors, dyes and acrylics. Any or all can be applied to a photograph. Very generally, the medium should be fairly translucent if you want the details of the original photograph to show through, but some workers completely cover the photo, using it like a paint-by-numbers template. Hand coloring became sadly neglected after the development of color photography, but it's an exciting, unique art form with unlimited potential, and not by any means limited to black and white (monochrome) prints. Let your imagination be your guide.I was never a colorist myself, but I spent many years making professional studio portraits, specializing in black and white. I had a wonderful colorist who hand tinted many of my pictures. Her medium of choice was Marshall's oils. She preferred a fiber base paper with a heavy texture such as Kodak "R" or "X," and wanted the pictures gold or sepia toned. The challenge today is that most if not all of these fiber based heavily textured papers are discontinued. Colorists today will have to improvise.Since my colorist was tinting rather than covering the original image, her method was to cover the entire picture with an oil medium such as Marshall's PMS (this gives the surface a "tooth" that takes the color smoothly), then work the oil into the surface using cotton balls and swabs. Rarely if ever did she use a brush except on fine detail. But it depends on the effect you want and the sky is the limit. One approach is to make multiple prints and try different things until you see something you like.A hand tinted or painted photograph has a completely unique look that is hard to duplicate with color film or even in digital. The substrate (original photograph) we habitually made was a long scale (normal contrast) black and white print on archival heavily textured fiber paper which was sepia toned for underlying warmth, although it is possible to apply paint or other media to any photograph on any material. In the 19th Century it was common to hand tint Daguerreotypes, ambrotypes (on glass) and tintypes (ferrotypes). Many of these have survived, and it's common to see old pictures with just a little red color rubbed into the cheeks. Properly finished archival fiber prints tinted in oils should last for centuries.Check out the Related Links below for lots more information and ideas:
How can you recover your old photos?
Depending on how damaged the photo is, you can get a program called "photoimpressions" which I use. I am actually redoing some old family photos and you can do all sorts of tricks with this program: Tears, discoloration, lighten, darken, touch up smudges, old spotting on photos, etc. If you are interested please post again and I can give you more info. Also, if you don't want to bother with this, just phone up a camera shop and they can tell you where you can take these photos to be touched-up. You can't harm the picture itself as you have to scan the picture into photoimpressions. You still have the original photo, but have put the scanned image into 'pictures' to work on. I restore many pictures for family and friends and haven't had a complaint yet. They get the original photo back and the scanned photo that I have amended.MarcyI would add that this is not restoration in any correct sense, but corrective manipulation of copies. The potential for physical restoration of a photograph depends on the nature of the damage, but in most cases is very limited. Scratched negatives can be retouched to a degree. The potential for scratched paper prints is much less (in truth, virtually impossible), so they may require the manipulations decribed above. Daguerreotypes are often found tarnished. There are chemical processes for restoring them to their original state, but cleaning should only be done by experts. The lightest touch of even a butterfly wing to the surface of a Daguerreotype will scratch it irreparably, so no physical contact should ever be made with the surface of the plate. In a few cases, cleaning chemicals can have long-term adverse effects on the image, so cleaning should be undertaken only in the most extreme need and only by highly qualified restorers. Photo restoration is something around which academic degrees are built, so it isn't something to be taken on lightly .You should use someone who has a lot of expertise with this so they don't ruin the original picture.Addendum: If you're talking about an old B&W photograph, retouching 'colors' and a 00 brush were used before digital manipulation came about.Spotone was available in neutral,cold,and warm black liquids, which was diluted with water, and a few drops were put on an impermeable surface to dry.Once dried, you'd wet the 00 or 000 brush with your tongue,take up some colour on your brush, test the intensity on your thumbnail, then apply toner with the very tip of the brush, a pinhead-sized bit at a time,(hence the term"Spotting)SLOWly building up intensity until the spot was the same tone as the original.If the photo was of any value and likely to be reproduced again, the retouched print was then copied, giving a 'new' negative.B&W negative retouching was done, but was more difficult, and the risk of further damaging the negative was always present.Colour retouching was also done, using Kodak Retouching Colors, but was far more involved, and best left to professional retouchers .
