I have used muriatic acid on smaller diameter pipes. A stronger version is hydrochloric acid, also keep in mind AAA always add acid first. Engineers hate this procedure. If the blockage is not too thick it might work. If you can Hilti some holes to hold the acid this also helps. Then it is just a matter of letting the acid work and working the concrete with a piece of re bar and a hammer. Definitely use protective clothing, I used my rain gear. Good luck.
When concrete is heated up, the moisture trapped inside can turn into steam and cause the concrete to expand rapidly, leading to cracking and spalling. The heat can also cause the concrete to lose its strength and structural integrity. Ultimately, if the temperature is high enough, the concrete can undergo thermal spalling and disintegrate.
To remove concrete without affecting plastic pipes inside, you can use a chipping hammer or jackhammer with a chisel attachment to carefully chip away at the concrete around the pipes. Take your time and work slowly to avoid damaging the pipes. It's also a good idea to have a professional plumber assess the situation before and after the concrete removal to ensure the pipes are intact.
Air pressure can be used to crush a can by creating a difference in pressure inside and outside the can. When the can is heated and then quickly cooled, the air inside the can condenses, creating a lower pressure. The higher pressure outside the can then crushes it.
Repeated freeze-thaw cycles can weaken concrete structures by causing cracks and deterioration. When water freezes inside the concrete, it expands and creates pressure, leading to damage over time. This can compromise the durability and strength of the structure, potentially reducing its lifespan.
The Red stain on a concrete surface is actually not the concrete rusting! It is an indication that the embedded steel [Re-Bar] inside the concrete is rusting and the rust color is migrating out to the surface. Concrete itself does experience corrosion that is separate and apart from steel corrosion. ASR, DEF, Efflorescence and Carbonation are the most common conditions of concrete corrosion. A rust stain is a result of steel oxidation [rust] forming. This happens when the pH of the concrete goes below 11.5 and there is moisture and oxygen present within the matrix. The damning part of corrosion cell formation on the steel is the rust expanding and causing cracks in the concrete! This allows an easier path for contaminates, moisture and oxygen to penetrate and cause the corrosion to advance faster.. At some point these cracks will completely dis-bond the concrete from the steel causing chunks of the concrete to fall away. [Called Spalling] It is extremely important to preserve concrete from day one and prevent this "Rusting", unfortunately most people and some contractors do not understand concrete degradation principles. A majority believe that concrete is waterproof and indestructible!! Big Misunderstanding!! The most common reason for rust on concrete is either rebar too close to the surface which will rust , or iron ore either mixed in the aggregate of the concrete or if you have a "pea gravel" decorative top coat, iron ore is quite commonly mixed in with the small stones. Sealing the pea gravel will slow it down, but it will eventually come through. I have seen entire driveways replaced because of this.
It may be easier to simply cut out the section of conduit and replace it.
The wire to conduit chart provides information on the maximum number and size of wires that can safely fit inside a conduit based on the conduit size.
Yes, it is generally not recommended to put Romex wiring inside conduit as it can cause overheating and potential safety hazards. Romex wiring is typically designed for use without conduit.
The first step is to place a spring inside the conduit thereby preventing it from snapping
A service head or LB fitting must be attached to the top end of a conduit riser where conduit is used in a service. This provides a termination point for the conduit and allows for easy access to the conductors inside the conduit.
A conduit sweep in electrical installations is used to smoothly change the direction of a conduit without sharp bends, reducing the risk of damaging the wires inside and making it easier to pull wires through the conduit.
The wire conduit chart provides information on the maximum number and size of wires that can safely fit inside different types of conduit. This helps electricians determine the appropriate conduit size for a specific wiring installation.
Cleat wiring is exposed while in conduit wiring the wires are well protected inside tubes/pipes.
Yes, you can put UF (Underground Feeder) cable inside PVC conduit, but it is not typically necessary since UF cable is designed for direct burial. If you choose to use conduit, ensure that it is properly sized and that the installation complies with local electrical codes. Additionally, remember that the conduit must be sealed at both ends to protect against moisture ingress.
It is the clearing of condensation on the inside of car windows
The maximum fill capacity for a 1/2 conduit is typically around 40 to 60 of the total area inside the conduit. This allows for proper installation of wires and cables without overcrowding.
It is easy to put a 2-inch long piece of conduit that is less than half an inch in any cross-sectional measure into a half-inch conduit.