The problem here is that "Ah" (ampere-hours) is not a unit of energy. To convert that to units of energy, you need to multiply by the voltage of the battery. The result, of course, will vary depending on the battery type.The result of this multiplication would give you ampere-hours-volts, or watts-hours (watts times hours). Therefore, you can then divide by the number of watts used, to obtain the time (in hours).
To calculate how long a 100 Watt light can run on a 40 Ah battery, first convert the battery's amp-hours to watt-hours. A 40 Ah battery at 12 volts provides 480 watt-hours (40 Ah × 12 V = 480 Wh). Dividing the total watt-hours by the power of the light gives you 4.8 hours (480 Wh ÷ 100 W = 4.8 hours). However, this is an ideal calculation; actual runtime may be less due to inefficiencies and battery discharge characteristics.
I'll answer my own question since no one answered it. I replaced the 2 pcs. 12v 4.5ah battery w/ 2pcs. 12v 4ah battery. It seems alright since it is now working fine for at least 2 months w/ 1 PC connected to the UPS. What I'm concerned though is that the UPS will overcharge the batteries since the replacements have a lower ah rating. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The charging will be fine - it is how long the UPS will run for (if you mains cuts out) that has been affected by your replacement.
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yes if that steel can carry charge w/o any lose in its capacity due to day light changes.
It means just that, the battery has been drained, has no power left. W/o battery the engine can't crank, w/o cranking it won't fire, w/o fire it won't run.
Frederick W. Wild has written: 'Memoirs and history of Capt. F. W. Alexander's Baltimore Battery of light artillery, U. S. V' -- subject(s): Accessible book, Baltimore Battery, Frederick William Alexander, History, Maryland Artillery, Maryland Artillery. Baltimore Battery, 1862-1865, Regimental histories, United States Civil War, 1861-1865
Something is on and drawing power from the battery. Dome, trunk, curtorsey, glove box, under hood light are suspect. You can also have a relay stuck closed as in A/C, P/W, P/DoorLock, P/Seat, etc.
The alternator may not be able to keep up to the voltage requirement of the vehicle check voltage output of alternator w/mechanical gauge
With another battery connected to the dead one or what a battery charger.
20 w grow light
Aloha (w)au ia Susan. (ah-low-ha [v]ow ee-ah Susan)
Most are not familiar w/the srs which is the SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEM.a YELLOW LIGHT IS USUALLY COOLANT.The RED LIGHT WHETHER STEADY OR INTERMITTENTLY,WOULD BE SERVICE ENGINE.IT WOULD NEED TO BE PUT ON A COMPUTER DIAGNOSTIC TO CONFIRM IF YOU HAVE NO OTHER INDICATOR LIGHT(S) ON.BLUE=HIGH BEAMSRED W/PIC. OF BATTERY=BATTERY NOT BEING CHARGEDYELLOW CIRCLE W/BROKEN LINES ON OUTSIDE OF CIRCLE=BRAKE PADS WORN DOWNRED W/! INSIDE CIRCLE=BRAKE FLUID LOWYELLOW W/ LIL OIL CAN=ENGINE OIL LEVEL LOWYELLOW W/SQUARE CANISTER(LOOKS LIKE A BATTERY)=COOLANT LEVEL LOWYELLOW ASR=ACCELERATION SLIP CONTROL (MALFUNCTIONING)YELLOW ASD=AUTO LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL(DIFFERENCE IN SPEED BETWEEN FRONT AND REAR WHEELS)YELLOW ABS=ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEMRED O2-SENSOR=2.3 CALIF.VERSION ONLY.OXYGEN SENSOR NEEDS TO BE CHECKED OR REPLACEDRED CHECK ENGINE LIGHT=MALFUNCTION IN FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM OR EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEM(SHOULD BE CHECKED BY ELECTRONIC DIAGNOSIS