You willl have a valve that separates the (heated) return from the (heated) supply. Make sure your system is off; shut this valve. Turn off or shut valves to all zones except one. Turn on (city or well water) water supply valve. Most systems shouldn't go over 25 pounds pressure (12-15 is about right) and are usually automatically regulated, but you might want to keep an eye on that or you could blow the relief valve (big mess). There is usually more than one drain. Look for the one that would give you a complete loop through the system the way the valves are now turned, from the (city or well water) supply, through the boiler (most likely but it might be located elsewher in the system), through the zone, and *then* to the drain you're about to open. If it's two feet of pipe to the drain, *it's the wrong one*. Open the drain slowly, you need to make sure water goes through the whole thing and forces the air out. Repeat for each zone. Remember to turn all of the valves back on when done. Note there are a ton of different configurations, most significant being where each zone has its own motor, or where each zone is simply valved off (which is how I described it above). common sense should get you from the above to what you need, just remember the goal is to give the water one & only one path. Then, repeat for each path possible in your system.
By using the bleeder valve by the boiler
Yes you can bleed a combi boiler. You do just the same as with a conventional boiler. However, the pressure will drop in your system, so you simply need to adjust it using the little tap (usually below the boiler) to bring it back again (Usually aronud 1.5)
open then close it
yes
Yeah. sure, why not?
on hot water heat with a boiler you should pressurize the system then open the bleeders
It's the pressure relief valves you always check. We wouldn't want that nasty old boiler to blow up and hurt someone, now, would we?
There is a key similar to those on radiators on the boilers than can be turned round with an adjustable wrench etc.
The bleed valve on a boiler pump is typically located on the pump body, often near the top or side. It is a small valve designed to release trapped air from the system, ensuring optimal performance and preventing airlock issues. To bleed the pump, you would usually open the valve slightly while the system is off, allowing air to escape until water flows steadily. Always consult the manufacturer's manual for specific location and instructions.
To restart your boiler after running out of oil, first, refill the oil tank. Next, locate the boiler's reset button, usually found on the burner control. Press the reset button to restart the burner; it may take a few minutes for the system to prime and start. If the boiler doesn't restart, you may need to bleed the oil line to remove any air trapped in the system.
Not for the faint of heart! For a Combi/Evaporation boiler: Switch off the boiler. Take a reading of the boiler water pressure gauge. Shut off the radiator's thermostat valve(if fitted)/supply valve and return valves, connect a hose to the drain and put the other end into a large container below the level of the bottom of the radiator. Open the draincock first and then the air bleed valve and let the radiator drain. Close the draincock. When refilling the radiator put the anti-corrosion treatment in first then open the thermostat valve and return valve as wide as possible. when the air is expelled, close the air bleed screw. Using the fill loop restore boiler pressure. Put all thermostat valves(if fitted) to max and fire up the boiler. After the boiler has run for 10 minutes, switch off, or so go to the highest radiator and bleed out the air. WARNING: the water/steam will be very hot and likely to spit. Use a cloth as a barrier and to mop up any spills. Recheck the boiler pressure and top up as necessary.
They serve two different purposes. An air bleed valve is used to remove air from the circulation system. A pressure relief valve is designed to automatically open when certain pressure levels are reached.