A Bottom Plate is the piece of timber which sits on the floor and forms the bottom of the wall, carrying the stud loads to the floor joists.
Also known as soleplate
Bearing walls use the double top plates to transfer loads from joists above through the wall studs, through the sole plates, through the floor system to the beams, columns, foundations and footings. Joints in top plates have to be located over the studs. The top and bottom double plate should not both have joints over the same stud. Joints in the top plates should be offset by at least one stud.Holes or notches in top plates of bearing walls must have 2 inches of material intact, or the top plate should be reinforced with wood or metal.If the floor or roof joists resting on the stud wall have the joists line up directly over or within 2 inches of the studs, a double top plate is not required, since there will be no load on the plate other than at the tops of studs. As a practical matter, this is rarely done, since it requires considerable care and layout. There is often a reason to move a joist one way or another slightly, and the double top plate provides the flexibility to do that.If single top plates are used, the builder didn't use the double overlap method to lock wall corners and T intersections together. In this case, metal ties are used to secure the walls together. Metal ties are also used where lintels extend up flush with the top plate. This interrupts the continuity of the plate, and metal ties join each end of the lintel to the adjacent plate.While we don't need double top plates on partition walls, these are common for a couple of reasons:Partition walls can be secured to and brace loadbearing walls by overlapping the double top bearing plates, locking the walls together.It is easier to cut all studs the same length to end up with an 8 foot high wall rather than to cut studs 1 1/2 inches shorter for bearing walls than for partition walls. It's faster and cheaper to build everything the same way.Openings in bearing walls require lintels (horizontal beams) to carry the loads around the openings. Openings in partition walls do not need lintels.
No side is consistently the hanging wall or the footwall for the San Andreas Fault. Some parts of it dip east while others dip west. Since the San Andreas Fault is a strike-slip fault, which blocks form the hanging wall and footwall is not particularly important.
Reverse faults are created by compressional stress, where the rocks are pushed together, causing the hanging wall to move up relative to the footwall. This type of faulting is common in areas undergoing compression, such as at convergent plate boundaries or mountain-building regions.
Normal faults occur when the hanging wall moves down relative to the footwall due to extensional forces, while reverse faults occur when the hanging wall moves up relative to the footwall due to compressional forces. Normal faults are associated with divergent plate boundaries, while reverse faults are associated with convergent plate boundaries.
In a normal fault, the hanging wall moves down relative to the footwall due to tensional forces pulling the plates apart. This type of fault is associated with divergent plate boundaries or areas where the Earth's crust is being pulled apart.
In construction, a sole plate is the bottom horizontal member of a wall frame that sits directly on the foundation, while a sill plate is the bottom horizontal member of a window or door frame that sits on top of the foundation.
Short studs placed between the header and a top plate or between a sill and bottom plate. A short stud used above or below a wall opening. Extends from the header to the top plate or from bottom plate to rough sill.
The purpose of the sill plate on an exterior wall is to provide a stable base for the wall framing and to transfer the weight of the structure to the foundation.
The part of the frame across the top of a door is called a lintel if it is structural (bearing a load). If it is not structural, it can be called a head trimmer. The headis the top of the door.
A wall sill plate is a horizontal piece of wood or metal that sits on top of the foundation walls in a building. Its purpose is to provide a stable base for the vertical walls of the structure to be built upon. The sill plate helps distribute the weight of the walls evenly and securely transfers the load to the foundation, contributing to the overall structural integrity of the building.
sill opening of a wall
they run vertically from bottom plate to top plate or double plate in a dwelling built from lumber framing.
To mark bottom plate framing for a wall, first measure and mark the desired wall length on the floor using a chalk line or straight edge. Then, position the bottom plate (usually a 2x4 or 2x6) along the marked line and ensure it is aligned correctly. Mark the stud locations on the bottom plate, typically every 16 or 24 inches on center, and indicate any door or window openings as needed. Finally, double-check all measurements before cutting and fastening the bottom plate in place.
Not sure what you are asking. If you are wanting to build a wall in a basement, measure the height required between the floor and the floor joist, build the wall on the floor, stand the wall up with the top in place where you want the wall to be and drive the bottom in place with a small sledge hammer. You can also make the wall just a little bit shorter than needed and drive shims between the top plate and the floor joists before you nail the wall in place. Nail the top and anchor the bottom with either concrete screws, shoot nails in or drill 1/8th holes through the bottom plate and into the concrete and use a 16 penny nail to lock it in place. It can't raise up, so you just have to keep the wall from moving side to side. **For a wall that runs perpendicular to the joists: Lay the top and bottom plates edge side up and mark the stud locations on both as you normally would. Then screw the top plate into the joists where it needs to go. Lay the bottom plate on the floor and staple black poly onto the bottom, flip it right over and staple onto the sides of the plate (never put untreated wood on concrete). Lay the bottom plate down close to being underneath the top plate. Stand a stud's inside edge on the outside edge of the bottom plate and mark its length where it touches the top plate. Cut to this length and position about 1/8" over the line you marked on the plates. Screw 2x diagonally through the sides of the stud into the plates using 2 or 2 1/2" decking screws (this will pull the stud to your line). When all the studs are installed, tap the sole plate in/out/left/right to square up the wall. Drill through the bottom plate into the floor and anchor with Tapcon screws or use a Hilti gun (powder shot nail gun) to anchor the base of the wall to the floor. I have done the first method many times and always ran into difficulty raising the wall unless it was made short on purpose. The wall is longer across the diagonal from the edge of the bottom plate to the edge that gets to the joists first if you make the wall height the same as the vertical measurement.
A double bottom plate in construction refers to two horizontal framing members placed at the bottom of a wall structure. It typically consists of two parallel lumber pieces that run along the length of the wall to provide support and stability. This double layer helps distribute the load evenly and reinforces the wall structure.
To frame a wall on concrete, start by marking the layout on the floor. Then, attach pressure-treated bottom plates to the concrete using concrete anchors. Next, cut and install the studs, securing them to the bottom plate and top plate. Finally, add insulation and drywall to complete the wall.
Excavation, footing, pier, foundation, sill plate, box sill, floor joists, subfloor, bottom plate, studs, headers, beams, top plate, double plate, ceiling joists, trusses, rafters, roof sheathing, roof underlayment, wall sheathing, windows, shingles, vapor barrier, insulation, drywall, drywall mud, tape, feather, baseboard, casing, underlayment, jamb, bi-fold door, bi-pass door, sliding door, french door, post, sill sealer, stairs, nails, adhesive, staples, screws, cabinets, HVAC, electrical panel, plumbing, form, siding, flashing, housewrap, home run, stack, outlets, devices, etc.