No, the neutral conductor will not be in that box. The white wire in the end of run will be the return "hot" leg back to the light fixture. When wired this white conductor should have had a black tape marker put on it to signify that it was not a neutral conductor. That same conductor should also have had a black marker placed on the end in the fixture's junction box.
Yes you just have to "steal" power from the switch. Do this by running a pigtail wire from the hot of the switch to the hot wire of the plug. Make sure you do this before the switch or you will end up with your outlet being switched as well.
Your question sounds simple but it isn't. There are two ways of wiring a light to a switch. One is to bring the hot and neutral wire to the switch box and from there run wires from the switch to the light. If this is the case you can install a GFCI on the circuit. The other way is to bring the hot and neutral wire to the light and from there run two wires to the switch and switch the light that way. In this case you cannot install a GFCI to in the switch box. <<>> The way you want the circuit to work has to be laid out as follows. Method one, the circuit that now controls the bathroom devices can be changed to a GFCI breaker. This is probably the quickest and cheapest, unless the job is new construction. Method two, if new construction use this method, as tearing walls open to get to the wiring will become costly. Where a supply circuit comes from the service distribution panel the first device on that circuit has to be a GFCI receptacle. This device has secondary terminals on it, that if connected every device downstream from it will also be protected. So if you supply the two way light switch that controls the vent fan and a bathroom light from the secondary terminals from the GFCI receptacle they will be protected.
As long as all the existing wiring is adequate for the anticipated loads, there's no electrical difference regardless of where you make the physical connection to additional wiring.
Yes.
The case of reverse polarity would only happen on a DC system. As to would it cause equipment to run when switched off, no, if the switch opens the equipment's power supply completely the device will not operate.
This is done all the time as an add-on to an existing system. An electrician wouldn't do this in an original installation. The considerations you have are not over loading the existing circuit; and the cosmetics involved if your wires are all concealed inside walls. You basically connect black, white and bare wires from the outlet to the switch. You switch the hot (black) wire and run black from switch to lights in parallel and connect the white and ground in the switch box. If you would be adding 3 60 watt lights that would add about 1.5 amps to the existing circuit. As with any electrical installation you need to know what you are doing, power needs to be off and you have to follow best practices an electrician would use to run wires and make connections.
Break off the tab that jumps between the wire mounting screws on the side of the receptacle. This turns one receptacle into 2 seperately controlled parts--one is always hot and the other is controlled by the switch (the one with the lamp plugged in).
Run a fused power line from the receptacle to either the battery for constant Hot or to the fuse box for an ignition controlled receptacle and ground the receptacle either by mounting on a metal surface or run a ground wire from the body of the receptacle to a good chasis ground
Warning: This is NOT a detailed tutorial but rather an overview of the concept that omits any mention of basic electrical safety procedures or any existing wiring alternatives or obstacles you might encounter. If you are not familiar with electrical code and permits, do not attempt this. Split the hot/black wire and put the side coming from your service panel on the top lug of the switch, and the wire going to the receptacle on the bottom lug. Don't forget to connect your ground to the switch. Depending on your application this may not be legal under the current electrical code.
Run a fused HOT line from the fuse block to the switch under dash - the other end to the cooling fan
No, tying into a kitchen run to power a 240V receptacle is not recommended. It's best to install a dedicated circuit for the receptacle and ensure that the wiring and circuit breaker are appropriately sized to handle the load. This will help prevent overloading the circuit and ensure safety.
A switched duplex receptacle can be wired two ways. If both duplexes are to be switched then the receptacle is wired the same as any light fixture. The black wire from the bottom of the existing switch goes to the brass screw on the receptacle that is to be switched. The white wire terminates on the neutral silver coloured screw. If you want just half of the duplex receptacle to be switched then the tie bar between the two brass screws on the receptacle has to be removed. Just wiggle it until it breaks free. Usually on a half switched receptacle the top half is switched and the bottom half remains a normal connection. After removing the tie bar, the top half of the receptacle is wired the same, as the description above, for a full duplex switched receptacle. Questions use the discuss question page.
To add a switch to a light, you will need to first turn off the power to the light fixture. Then, you will need to run electrical wiring from the light fixture to the location where you want to install the switch. Connect the wiring to the switch and the light fixture following the manufacturer's instructions. Finally, secure the switch in place and turn the power back on to test the switch.
To add an outlet to a light switch, you will need to run a new electrical wire from the switch to the location where you want the outlet. This involves turning off the power, removing the switch, connecting the new wire, and installing the outlet. It is recommended to consult a licensed electrician for safety and proper installation.
To install a washer receptacle in a laundry room, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the area where you will be installing the receptacle. Locate a suitable location near the washer for the receptacle. Install a new electrical box and run wiring to the location. Connect the wiring to the receptacle, following proper electrical codes. Secure the receptacle in place and test it to ensure it is working correctly. Turn the power back on and test the receptacle again before using it.
If I am reading your question right, you can do this. Just parallel the outlets to the device already switched by the 3-way switches. The outlets will turn off and on by the switches. Watch that you do not overload the switches or the circuit.
You do not want it to run on low freon as it will burn itself up. There is a low pressue switch that tells it not to run if the freon pressure is below a certain point. To make it run; add freon.