Wire is the transition material used to carry the electric current; the switch is the controller of that current.
No. The wire size is dependent on the circuit protection. If the circuit uses a 20 amp breaker you need to run 12 AWG wire on all devices connected to that circuit.
When you switch off an electrical circuit you tend to create a 'break' in the circuit, preventing the electric current to flow around the circuit, this can be caused by a simple switch or a break in the circuit, e.g a disconnected wire.
Yes two "hot" wires and a neutral can enter into a switch box. This is done on occasions where a three wire enters a switch box, drops off one circuit for the lighting and the other "hot" wire carries on to feed a receptacle circuit.
The pre wire for a ceiling fan light should be made with a three wire cable. This cable will have a red, black, and white wire as main conductors. This cable will also have a bare ground wire. This wire should be strung between a two gang switch box to the fixture junction box. This pre wire allows the supply to be either fed to the two gang box. From the two gang switch junction box, one side will be used for the light in the fixture and the other side of the switch junction box, itwill be used for the fan portionin the fixture.
I assume that both the light switch and the outlet are already installed. First, look at the visible portion of the switch carefully. Does it say "Off" and "On"? If not, you have a 3-way switch, and you should stop here because these instructions will not work for a 3-way switch. Now, identify all devices that are operated by this switch. Presumably, you at least have an overhead light on the circuit. Identify the breaker that controls this circuit and turn it OFF. Now you need to identify the LAST device on this circuit. To do so, one device at a time, remove each device from its box (but do not disconnect the wires). The last device will have only one cable (sheathed bundle of 3-4 wires) coming into the box (any devices between the switch and the last device will have two cables coming into the box). Now, purchase enough cable to stretch from the last device to the outlet you want connected to the switch. Remember that this cable will have to run across ceiling joists, wall studs, etc., rather than in a straight line. The new cable should be the same gauge and type as the existing wiring. Purchase 3-4 feet more than you need. You will also need wire nuts (the standard yellow nuts is the size you will most likely need, but it won't hurt to buy a variety pack), electrical tape, wire cutters, a utility knife, wire strippers, and cable staples (U-shaped nails) Go to a place where you can access the BACK side of the box that houses the last device on your circuit (if this is an overhead light, that will be in your attic; if it's a wall outlet, you're pretty much screwed.) Punch out an unused hole in the back of this box and feed at least six inches of cable through that hole. Staple the cable to a ceiling joist or other sturdy frame member as close as possible to the box. If you are lucky, there will already be a hole in the top plate, with a different cable running down to the outlet. If not, you're going to have to drill your own hole, and take a chance of electrocuting yourself and/or shorting out your whole house, if there is another cable running along the underside of this top plate. Once the hole is drilled, feed the cable down through that hole as far as you can. Now, identify the circuit that controls the outlet and turn the breaker off. Take the cover plate off of the outlet, then unscrew the outlet from the box and pull it out of the box. Again, you need to identify how many cables are coming into that box. If there is only one cable, disconnect all wires from the outlet and cap them with a small wire nut (grey will probably work best) and tape them up with electrical tape. If there are two cables, you will need to disconnect all wire and match them up - black to black, white to white, ground to ground - and connect each matched pair with yellow wire nuts and tape them up. This will remove the outlet from its previous circuit, and you can now turn that breaker back on. Now comes the hard part. You need to somehow take the cable end you fed down through the top plate and feed it into the back of the outlet box. If the box isn't nailed to a stud, you can just pull it out, and it will be much easier. Otherwise, this task will be be very near impossible. You might try bending a coat hanger straight, then bending the last inch back into a U shape, then trying to fish inside the wall for the cable end. But even if you can catch it, you have to pull it through a small hole in the back of your box, and that cable isn't very flexible. You may end up having to cut a section of your drywall out and replace it later. Once you get the new cable coming into your box, trim the end to 6 inches, then cut the sheathing off with a utility knife, being careful not to cut the insulation around the individual wires. Separate the black, white, and ground wires and strip the last inch or so of insulation from the black and white wires. Bend the last inch of all three wires into a U shape. Hook this U-bend around the connection screws as follows: Black wire to one of the two brass screws on the right side of the outlet, white wire to one of the two silver screws on the left side of the outlet, and ground wire to the green screw at the bottom of the outlet. (It doesn't matter which of the two brass screws or which of the two silver screws you use, as long as the black wire is connected to brass screw and the white wire to a silver screw.) Now go back to the front side (not in your attic) of the box for your overhead light (or whatever you determined to be the last device on your switched circuit. You will have the new cable sticking out of that box, as well as the existing connection from your circuit to the device. These connection will be as follows: one circuit black wire connected to one or more black wires going to the device (if the device is a ceiling fan, and it has a light kit attached, there may also be a blue wire attached to the black wires); one circuit white wire connected to one or more white wires going to the device; and one circuit ground wire connected to a bare or green wire, which in turn is connected to either a metal part of the device or a grounding screw inside the box. You will need to remove the tape and wire nuts from the black wire connection and the white wire connection. Then add the new black wire from your new cable to the existing black (and blue, if applicable) wires and connect them all together with a yellow wire nut. Then add the new white wire from your cable to the existing white wires and connect them all together using a yellow wire nut. Tape up both connections with electrical tape. Then twist the new ground wire around the existing bare ground wire to complete the ground connection. Replace your device, turn the breaker back on, and check everything.
To properly install a 3-way switch with power at the light in a circuit, you need to connect the power source to the light fixture first. Then, run a 3-wire cable from the light to the first switch, and another 3-wire cable from the first switch to the second switch. Connect the wires according to the wiring diagram for a 3-way switch setup, making sure to follow proper safety precautions and turn off the power before working on the circuit.
There isn't a specific diameter. The thicker the wire the more current it can convey. This diameter will be part of your calculations for your circuit.
Close circuit is a complete circuit of battery wire bulb and a switch
The purpose of the common wire in a light switch circuit is to provide a return path for the electrical current to complete the circuit and allow the light to turn on or off when the switch is toggled.
To properly wire a switch in your electrical circuit, first turn off the power to the circuit. Connect the hot wire to one terminal of the switch and the load wire to the other terminal. Make sure to ground the switch if necessary. Secure the connections with wire nuts or screws. Test the switch to ensure it is working correctly before turning the power back on.
A GFCI can not be used on a three wire branch circuit. It has to be on a single two wire circuit.
To properly wire a 2 pole switch in a circuit, connect the hot wire to one terminal of the switch and the load wire to the other terminal. Make sure to connect the ground wire to the switch's grounding terminal for safety. This setup allows the switch to control two separate circuits simultaneously.
To wire a 3-way switch with multiple lights, you will need to connect the power source to the first switch, then run a 3-wire cable between the switches. Connect the cable to the second switch and then run a 2-wire cable from the second switch to each light fixture. Connect the wires according to the wiring diagram for a 3-way switch setup.
The purpose of a common wire in a light switch circuit is to provide a return path for the electrical current to complete the circuit and allow the light to turn on or off.
In a light switch circuit, the line is the wire that brings power into the switch, while the load is the wire that carries power from the switch to the light fixture. The line wire is typically connected to the power source, while the load wire is connected to the light fixture.
A 3-wire light switch functions in a typical electrical circuit by controlling the flow of electricity to the light fixture. One wire brings power to the switch, another wire carries power to the light, and the third wire is used for grounding. When the switch is turned on, it completes the circuit, allowing electricity to flow from the power source to the light, turning it on.
A 4-wire switch functions in a circuit by allowing the user to control the flow of electricity through four different connections. The switch can be used to open or close the circuit, turning the power on or off to the connected devices.