Is this sub grade? If so-
First you need to apply a vapor barrier. A good 4 mil plastic. Tape the seams very well and run it up any supports and walls about a 6 in. Tape this up well also.
Buy all the material bellow, open the flooring and let the plywood and flooring sit in the area it will be going for 3 to 4 days. This it to acclimate the wood to the moister where it will be going.
Then lay down 3/4 in or 5/8 in plywood over the entire floor. This should be exposure rated but NOT pressure treated!! Leave a healthy 1/4 gap between every sheet and 1/2 around any non moving structure (wall, support). This is for expansion.
Now apply a low VOC glue to 1/2 in plywood and lay it down, oriented in the opposite to the first layer. This orientation will give you better coverage and strength. Putting the 3/4 down first is key because now you are going to take a brad nailer and nail all the sheets together as well. The glue and nails, along with the counter oriented plywood will give you a solid sub surface. Be sure your nails will not penetrate the bottom piece and compromise the vapor barrier. Leave 1/4 and 1/2 gaps as above.
Now apply your engineered wood floor. Stick with engineered wood. Even though you have done everything you can for moister, there is still more around than you think. A good engineered floor with a thick top coat of the finish wood will look great. Engineered floor is the way of the future. It's uses less of the wood we want to see, and is more stable.
answerYou would lay timber floor joists acroos the the size would depend upon how high you need to raise the floor. Then you'd lay floor boards over the joists. the joists would be layed every 400mm and would require noggings to reduce movevement and 'creaking'. The floor boards should be of a tongue and groove type for the same reasons. The cheapest floor bords are made of chipboard and are 8' by 2' and they should be glued.If you wanted to raise it a matter of a few inches then you could just screed over the top of it. If you wanted just a few mm then a self leveling liquid can be applied.
This all depends on the floor. Concrete that is level is a wonderful substrate for many types of flooring. * Ceramic or porcelain tile: are great on concrete. In fact it is the preferred substrate. Laid on a level floor with a good latex fortified thinset, you should expect this floor to last a lifetime. * Vinyl: Another great floor for concrete. Glued directly to the floor you really don't need to do much special. The surface needs to be free of defect, as any will show through to the surface. Today there are great vinyl floors that look like wood (not a perfect representation mind you) that you can put onto a water or moisture prone area like basements. * Wood: With wood you do have some limitations. You cannot lay a solid wood floor over concrete. You also cannot put solid wood subgrade (below the soil line of the outside of your house, basements, sunken living rooms etc). You can though lay an engineered wood onto concrete, even subgrade. Engineered wood is plywood with real wood planking atop. These are laid with a high quality latex or urethane based glue. * Floating Wood or Laminate: Like a lot of floors, floating floors must have a very level substrate. 1/8" in a 6' radius is the standard idea. If you have a substrate level enough, you should be good to go. Most pads for laminate or wood are already a moisture barrier. If it is not, or the pad is attached to the floor already you need to lay 6 mil rolled plastic over the entire floor. Beyond that, the floor should be very similar to installing onto a wood subfloor.
This may be possible if you prep the dry concrete with a latex bonding agent.
When installing a floating wood floor it is important to prepare the floor for instillation. It is important to snap a chalkline and nail guide-board, then proceed to lay the first row and complete it. Make sure to install the first plank on the second row. Continue with the last action until the floor is complete.
Tell me what magnasite is & I will tell you how to lay the floor...
Yes but lay the recommended underlay first!
Yes on wood, no on smooth solid concrete
answerYou would lay timber floor joists acroos the the size would depend upon how high you need to raise the floor. Then you'd lay floor boards over the joists. the joists would be layed every 400mm and would require noggings to reduce movevement and 'creaking'. The floor boards should be of a tongue and groove type for the same reasons. The cheapest floor bords are made of chipboard and are 8' by 2' and they should be glued.If you wanted to raise it a matter of a few inches then you could just screed over the top of it. If you wanted just a few mm then a self leveling liquid can be applied.
To lay sheet vinyl flooring on concrete, first clean and level the concrete surface. Apply adhesive to the concrete, then lay the vinyl sheet carefully, smoothing out any air bubbles. Trim excess vinyl and allow the adhesive to dry completely before walking on the floor.
To install a floating concrete floor in your home, you will need to prepare the subfloor, lay down a moisture barrier, install a foam underlayment, and then lay the concrete panels on top. Make sure to leave expansion gaps around the edges and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Finally, finish the floor with a sealant or polish for added durability and aesthetics.
You don't put padding directly on a concrete floor. You have to frame out the floor, lay plywood sheets over the frame, probably want a vapor barrier as well. Then you can lay any pad and carpet you want. There are certain types of carpet that come with an attached foam padding that are designed to lay over concrete. If you think you want to just glue carpet directly to the concrete floor, check the mfg. warranty first. Most mfgs. will not honor their warranty unless they specifically state that it can be glued to concrete.
With concrete mix.you first dig a trench say 450mm deep lay hardcore 300mm in layers of 150 @ then mix sand cement and ballast with water and lay on top of hardcore
To install a floating wood floor over concrete, first ensure the concrete is clean and level. Lay down a moisture barrier, then install a foam underlayment. Next, lay the floating wood planks according to the manufacturer's instructions, leaving space for expansion. Finish by adding trim and transitions as needed.
This all depends on the floor. Concrete that is level is a wonderful substrate for many types of flooring. * Ceramic or porcelain tile: are great on concrete. In fact it is the preferred substrate. Laid on a level floor with a good latex fortified thinset, you should expect this floor to last a lifetime. * Vinyl: Another great floor for concrete. Glued directly to the floor you really don't need to do much special. The surface needs to be free of defect, as any will show through to the surface. Today there are great vinyl floors that look like wood (not a perfect representation mind you) that you can put onto a water or moisture prone area like basements. * Wood: With wood you do have some limitations. You cannot lay a solid wood floor over concrete. You also cannot put solid wood subgrade (below the soil line of the outside of your house, basements, sunken living rooms etc). You can though lay an engineered wood onto concrete, even subgrade. Engineered wood is plywood with real wood planking atop. These are laid with a high quality latex or urethane based glue. * Floating Wood or Laminate: Like a lot of floors, floating floors must have a very level substrate. 1/8" in a 6' radius is the standard idea. If you have a substrate level enough, you should be good to go. Most pads for laminate or wood are already a moisture barrier. If it is not, or the pad is attached to the floor already you need to lay 6 mil rolled plastic over the entire floor. Beyond that, the floor should be very similar to installing onto a wood subfloor.
To install a floating floor over concrete, first ensure the concrete is clean and level. Lay down a moisture barrier, then install underlayment padding. Next, click or glue the floating floor planks together, leaving a small gap around the edges for expansion. Trim the edges and add finishing touches as needed.
To install in-floor heating in concrete, first, lay down insulation to prevent heat loss. Next, place heating cables or mats on top of the insulation. Then, pour concrete over the heating elements and let it cure. Finally, connect the heating system to a thermostat for control.
To effectively lay floor tile on concrete, start by cleaning and leveling the concrete surface. Apply a layer of thin-set mortar using a trowel, then place the tiles in a desired pattern. Use spacers to maintain even spacing between tiles. Once the mortar has dried, apply grout between the tiles and wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge. Allow the grout to dry completely before walking on the tiled floor.