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You have two style options for black tie shoes: formal pumps (also called Opera pumps or court shoes), or black balmoral oxford dress shoes.

Formal pumps are made of patent leather or highly-polished calfskin, with a black grosgain ribbon on the top. If the ribbon has a bow tied in it, with a band lengthwise across the center, it is called a pinched bow pump, while a pump with only a flat ribbon crossing the top is called aflat bow pump. These formal shoes are the ideal complement to a tuxedo, but as they are expensive and single-purpose, many men shy away from purchasing them.

If you don't want to shell out for formal pumps, a pair of highly-polished oxfords are also acceptable. A few men's shoe styles have become accepted as accompaniments for tuxedos, listed here in descending order of formality:

  1. Wholecut Balmoral - This is an uncommon style, wherein the uppers are a single piece of unbroken leather. A single slit is cut down from the opening and punched with eyelets for the laces. It looks quite sleek, and suits a tuxedo well.
  2. Plain-Toe Balmoral - This is your basic high-formality business dress shoe. "Balmoral" implies that the lacing system is closed - that is, the piece of leather containing the eyelets is sewn directly into the upper of the shoe, not laid on top. That makes the top smooth and even, which is preferred for black tie attire.
  3. Cap-Toe Balmoral - The same as a basic balmoral, but with the toe stitched onto the uppers, creating a horizontal line across the top about an inch back from the toe. It is a common business style, but bordering on too informal for black tie. Pair it with the more relaxed shawl collar, rather than peaked lapels.
  4. Plain-Toe Blucher - Also called derbies, bluchers have an open lacing system, meaning that the pieces of leather containing the eyelets are separate from the uppers, and layered on top of them. Black tie has begun to tolerate the intrusion of these lower-formality shoes in the last few decades, but they are decidedly less impressive than your other options.

Thin black socks should be worn with whatever style of shoe you choose. Avoid thick cotton socks, even if they are black.
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