How do you replace clutch cable on 1971 beetle?

Answer 1

I have just changed one this week on my '73, so it's still fresh in my mind!

Equipment needed:

• Ratchet, with 17mm and 13mm sockets, and short extension,
• Wheel brace,
• Axle stand,
• Jack,
  
• External circlip pliers (small),
• A helper.
• something to chock the front wheels.

1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the nearside rear of the car, remove the wheel, and lower on to an axle stand.
2. Remove the butterfly nut from the end of the existing cable. When you look through the wheel arch, you should be able to see the transmission housing, if you look above, and to the left of where the halfshaft exits the casing, you should see a bracket that holds the cables outer. Trace this back, and you will come across the clutch arm. This may be easier if you pull off the heater hose that runs between the heat exchanger and the heater channel.
3. Go inside the car and slide the front seats back as far as they will go, and remove the front carpets, so to allow access to the pedal box assembly.
4. From inside the passenger footwell, remove the two 17mm bolts that hold the end of the pedal assembly remove the cover and you will see the throttle cable, this needs to be pulled out of the arm. Remove the circlip from the end of the throttle assy, remove the arm, washer, and then the bracket. Take note of the position of the small protrusion on this which acts as the throttle stop, it's at the top of the bracket!
5. From inside the drivers footwell, remove the two 13mm from the bottom of the bracket that is behind the throttle pedal, remove the two 17mm bolts from the clutch end of the assembly (on the other side of the tunnel from the firs two). Next, remove the circlip from the brake pedal arm, unhook the return spring, and slide off the link arm.
6. The pedal box is no ready to withdraw. To do this, you will need to move it towards you and upwards to allow the throttle shaft to be partially withdrawn, then lift the throttle end up to as near vertical as you can, and the assembly should come out of the tunnel.
7. The old cable should still be attached to the lever on the end of the assembly, and can now be completely withdrawn. If it is not, you will need to fish around inside the tunnel for it!
8. You can now feed in the new cable, I found that the easiest way to do this was to put two fingers through the passenger side tunnel hole, and use these to guide the cable, which you feed in from the opposite side.
9. You are now ready for your helper! Hook the new cable on to the end of the pedal assembly, and get your helper to gently pull the other end of the cable, as you need to keep it in tension, or the cable will slip off the hook when you put the assembly back in to the tunnel.
   
10. With your helper still pulling the end of the cable, insert the assembly back in to the tunnel, and bolt it back into place. Be careful don't let the clutch pedal drop down, as the cable may unhook, and you will have to start again! Whilst you do this, ensure that the brake pedal return spring is free (it can get nipped between the shaft and the pedal stops on the floor)
11. You can now feed the other end of the cable through the clutch arm, and re-fit the butterfly nut. Screw it on as far as you can, but don't overtighten, as you need to back it of later, to set the throw correctly!
12. Go back inside the car, and gently push the clutch pedal, it shoud not move. Next, get your helper to back off the butterfly nut, a bit at a time, until you can push the pedal with your hand about 20mm or so, before the tension is taken up in the cable.
13. That's the cable done. Re fit the brake link, spring and circlip, the throttle linkage and cable, and refit the end cover.
    
14. Take the car off the axle stand, replace the wheel, take it off the jack, remove the chocks, replace the carpets, and you should be good to go!!

If you haven't yet bought your new cable, I would recommend buying a new rear cable outer - it is just a push fit as this gets full of crap over the years (mine was so full of crud, that I had to remove it, as the new cable would not pass through it). Also, it's a good idea to give the new cable a good covering of grease before you insert it.

Hope this helps!