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How do you change a water pump on a Mercury Sable?
It depends on the year and the engine size...3.0L -Remove the coolant reservoirRemove the serpentine beltRemove the water pump pulleyRemove the bypass hoseRemove the pump bolts and remove the pump.may have to remove tensioner to get a bolt outIf car is equipped with 3.8L engine, then the procedure is considerably more difficult.Do the same first 2 steps - and then it gets messy:you have to remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine out of the mounts -remove the water pump pulleyremove the pump bolts - the main 4 are studs with nutsNOTE: after the nuts are removed you have to remove the studs to allow room for the pump to go by the timing chain coverNOTE: if you cant remove the studs then the motor has to come out - so get those studs out! ;)Highly recommend at least one of the following:Buy a repair manual - if you see you're going to be doing much more maintenance and repairs on your Sable, it's a very good investment of about $18.Autozone offers free access to Chilton's Repair Guide at their website. This is an outstanding resource with diagrams and photos to guide the way.Tip - MUST HAVE ToolFor anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!! This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.NOTE: anyone who does this repair, please come back to WikiAnswers and add your experience and help others.
Replace Heater core VT commodore?
Hi guys just a few pix of my heater core / system overhaul i did a few days ago.Before I start Please note that i was quoted $1,600 + Parts from an Air Con Repair Shop and $3,000 + Parts from Holden in New Zealand to have this attended too. I am not a mechanic but do have a knack for tearing things apart.Tools you will need:1 x Socket Wrench1 x 10mm Socket1 x 20cm - 30cm socket extension bar1 x Phillips Screwdriver1 x Neednose Pliers.Tip: I found that remembering that the screws with a point go back into holes with the plastic retainer plug and the flat end screws for into metal only holes.I am not going to explain much as it is just really dissasembly and is self explanatory but i will say there is about a million screws lol.Here we go....Step One - Remove Dash Fascia (Surround)Step Two - Remove steering wheel coversStep Three - Remove Glove Box and Centre Console Side Panels the glove box has a pin in the right side of the boxStep Four - Remove Dashboard CoverNote: 5 Bolts at the base of the windscreen and dash you will need your Socket Wrench, 10mm Socket and Extension bar for this as it is very tight and hard to work with.You should end up with this...Step Five - Remove the Passenger Airbag Support Bars and Remove HVAC BoltsNOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DEGASSED THE AIRCON UNIT BEFORE COMMENCING FURTHER!!NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FLUSHED ALL THE COOLANT OUT OF THE SYSTEM BEFORE COMMENCING!!In this step you will need to remove the Passenger Airbag support bars, a few bolts and screws.Then you will need to disconnect any air ducts, which they should just pull off.Next you will need to pop your engine hood. MAKE SURE YOUR A/C HAS BEEN DEGASSED SAFELY. Mine was already degassed luckily.You will see five bolts along the firewall you will need to un-do these as these are what anchor your HVAC unit inside you car. Also you will need to unscrew your A/C pipes from the firewall by unscrewing two small star screws and a bolt this is located on the passenger side on the firewall in the engine bay. Now un-do the heater core pipes. if you cannot undo like mine just cut them with scissors and replace them.Once you have unbolted the HVAC unit from the firewall, jump back inside the car and slide the grommet down as shown below and remove the HVAC unit.Once removed it should look like this now..Step Six - Remove Heater Core and ReplaceThe heater core will just slide out from the HVAC unit where you can now slide in a new replacement unit. I replaced mine with an aftermarket brass one which was $100 cheaper than from Holden.Step Seven - Replace heater Tap with New OneSince my Holden had a redirected heater system i didnt know which component was at fault so but assumed it was expensive as they opted to redirect that to repair. There are only three compoments really - Heater Core, Heater Tap Valve & Hoses. I replaced all three for good measure while i was in there***PHOTOS TO COME***To install the hoses and heater tap is very easy. Just undo all the hoses and remove the heater tap, replace heater tap and attach new hoses exactly how it was before.Step 8 - Double Check all clamps and bolts etc.Check all hose clamps, bolts and screws are secure so we can now refill the coolant.Step 9 - Refill CoolantRefill Coolant as directed.Step 10 - Wipe down before test run.Wipe down any water spillage on hoses so when you test the car you can see if anything is leaking.TURN HEATER INSIDE CAR TO HIGH AND FAN ON FULL. NOW START THE CAR. ONCE CAR IS RUNNING BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM USING THE BLEED VALVE AND TOP UP COOLANT AS REQUIRED.Once you have done that you're all done.PS: Will be adding extra photos soon.I hope that helps some of you guys and saves you some hard earned money at the same time.Good luck ----
How do you replace the water pump on a 1998 Ford Taurus and what other parts have to be removed to remove the water pump?
DURACTEC / DOHC - See "Related Questions" belowBuy a Repair Manual for your particular car. Chilton and Haynes are OK but Michell is probably the best. and ASE recommended.Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove to power steering pump and set it aside. (you will need a power steering pulley puller and installer kit). remove any belt tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the sub frame by a large nut(approx 7/8" (front) 17.5mm (Back)). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the sub frame. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as dis-assembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system. If you have a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the system to verify there are no leaks.If it is anything like the 96 GL Taurus. Then there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary.remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrench) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car.Tip - MUST HAVE ToolFor anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.Try your local Library for the correct car repair manual. There is to many steps involved for a written description. Most Librarys carry Chilton or other car repair manuals. If they don't have it at the branch you try, ask at the desk, they can probably get it from another branch.Most Taurus's came with either a 3.0 or a 3.8 engine. The water pump replacement is basically the same for both engines. Remove the coolant jug, break loose the bolts on the w/pump pulley, remove the belt, remove the pulley, remove the alternator, remove any tensioners or brackets that hang in the way, remove the bolts holding the water pump to the timing cover, and remove the water pump.Note: a 3.8 has extra-long water pump bolts that you may have to pull almost all the way out and then bring them out with the water pump assembly.Helpful hint: Both the 3.0 and 3.8 have 2 motor mounts located on the passenger's side of the vehicle that are held to the subframe by a large nut(aprox 21 or 22mm). One is on the RF corner, the other is back by the firewall under the car on the subframe. If you jack up the car and remove those nuts, the engine can be raised a little using a floorjack with a block of wood under the oil pan to give additional clearance at the fender apron to get the water pump in and out.After removing the water pump, scrape gasket surface thoroughly, and install new pump. Evenly tighten the bolts, and reassemble the vehicle in the reverse order as disassembly. Fill with new coolant and burp out any air in the system.Early modelsIt takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit stil hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good wayIt takes a long time. I removed the Anti-freeze and washer fluid tank. I removed the belt, the water pump wheel, disconnected the top hoses and the bottom radiator hose. I removed all the bolts and nuts and the unit still hit the frame. I had to take a crow bar and push the engine over to get the pump to come off the 4 bolts that stayed on the engine block. After about 3-4 hours I finally got it out.It went back in in about an hour. Tough but challenging job in a good wayHey Jesse==It is best when you attempt a big job like this that you get a manual on your vehicle from a parts store for about $18 which will tell you how to do the pump and belt and also will be there for the next repair. GoodluckJoefirst take of wire cover on top to give yourself more room then take off serpetean belt by taking a 15mm wrench to the tentioner and turn it clockwise to loosen belt then take off hose leading out the front of car the take off hte bracket thatthat holds a/c compressorbolts are 10mm them take off the nuts to water pump. before youcan get to hte lower hoses you must take off the front iner fenderwell. whatch out the heaterhose is a bear to get the clamp off. i took the big lower hose off first and then from top tyrned the water pump so i could get the clamp off for the heater hose needlessto say i change the clamp for a regular screw clamp once your there you can easily manuver the water pump out reverse to install.Find the pump and replace it. Go to your local library and borrow a motor manual to help out. Yu need a few small tools too.Drain water first! The 96 GL Taurus, there are 4, 13mm nuts on the water pump and 3, 10mm bolts underneath and 3 hoses to disconnect from pump. You may want to remove the inside cover of the wheel surround to get easier access to the 10mm nuts under the water pump. If more room required, remove tyre from car.You can remove the water reservoir to give yourself a bit more room when removing the water pump, but is not necessary. Just be a tight squeeze to jimmy the water pump out, but it will come out.remove the serpentine belt buy using a 3/8 ratchet (socket wrentch) on the belt tensioner located just under the power steering pump. Releasing the tension by pulling towards the front of the car. Bit of a tricky process but once you have the ratchet in place, let it fall as far as it can towards the firewall, I use a ring spanner on the handle of the ratchet for ease of pulling the ratchet back towards the front of the vehicle to release the tension on the belt.If your going to replace the belt as well as the water pump which is a good idea and you know how to put the belt back on (Just look up at the diagram under the hood) I just cut the belt.An alternative to a new Ford water pump which can be quite expensive are the GMB water pump which are 1/3 of the price but do exactly the same job. It comes with just the pump and the belt wheel and rubber gasket. Take off the wheel and pump off your old water pump using the right sized Allen key, clean off the old gasket and replace with new. You can use gasket glue but not necessary. Re tighten bolts evenly using Allen key. Put back in the car, replace belt, refill with water and voala!!!Note: When removing or putting belt back on! After you have released the tension on the belt, remove belt from under water pump first when removing and last when you are putting belt back on.! I am no A grade mechanic, but this is how I did my belt and water pump on my 96 GL Station Wagon and my car is still running smooth!It depends on the year and the engine size...3.0L -Remove the coolant reservoirRemove the serpentine beltRemove the water pump pulleyRemove the bypass hoseRemove the pump bolts and remove the pump.If car is equipped with 3.8L engine, then the procedure is considerably more difficult.Do the same first 2 steps - and then it gets messy:you have to remove the motor mount bolts and lift the engine out of the mounts -remove the water pump pulleyremove the pump bolts - the main 4 are studswith nutsNOTE: after the nuts are removed you have to remove the studs to allow room for the pump to go by the timing chain coverNOTE: if you cant remove the studs then the motor has to come out - so get those studs out! ;)Highly recommend at least one of the following:Buy a repair manual - if you see you're going to be doing much more maintenance and repairs on your Sable, it's a very good investment of about $18.Autozone offers free access to Chilton's Repair Guide at their website. This is an outstanding resource with diagrams and photos to guide the way.Tip - MUST HAVE ToolFor anyone working on a car's cooling system, you MUST check out the MUST-HAVE tool for dealing with those spring-type hose clamps!!This tool has a pinching device on the end to securely grab the 'ears' on the hose clamp - squeeze the handle to open the clamp, and then automatically lock it open.The next awesome feature of this tool: the clamping action is on the end of a cable - you work it down to the clamp buried down underneath, or directly next to some part of the engine - minimal clearance required.The very very best $40 you will ever invest into your tool collection!Sears makes one - check it out at a local store and linked below.NOTE: anyone who does this repair, please come back to Wiki s and add your experience and help others.
