You can play games or auction your items.
You can use a mutant paintbrush. or use a Transmogrification potion that will automatically make it mutant. edit: There is no such thing as a mutant paint brush. So the only way is the tmp. (transmog potion)
If you mean what are the types of paint brushes ever created, you can go to the rainbow pool and click on the paintbrush link at the top right. If you mean what are the steps to painting your pet, I would suggest that you first check to make sure what are the available colors to your neopet you wish to paint, then buy it, (some paint brushes are far more expensive than others so it may require a month or two of saving up), and go to the rainbow pool to paint! Note that once you paint your pet the paint brush disappears. you cannot reverse this process at all.
Absolutely, just make sure you clean the area to be painted extremely well. I usually wash with hot water & Dawn dish detergent, dry, then wipe down with paint thinner (after sanding - if you have to sand).
Oh yes the make sure they are always well groomed and clean.
Painting a fully lit red brick wall with no major areas of cast shadow: Burnt Sienna, cad yellow, cad red, burnt umber, yellow ochre and white. 1/4 to 1" bristle and sable bright brushes First: assume the since a real wall's surface is handmade, ergo irregular, both as individual units (bricks) and as finaished surface (wall)its color will therefore be irregular and varied as a color "field" because each brick is slightly different and the light will strike the wall unevenly. This is good news! It saves you from the tedium of "getting it just right." Choose the direction from with light falls across the brick wall, lets say from up left at about 10 o'clock high, so to speak. Now paint the entire wall as a single midtone, brick color without trying to make the color uniformly mixed. Onto this "mass tone" loosely brush in more irregularities of lighter (tending to the yellows) and darker tones (tending to the umbers). DO NOT BEGIN BY TRYING TO PAINT INDIVIDUAL BRICKS. Try to paint what you would see if you squinted just enough to be unable to see the mortar. Make the wall slightly darker in its mass tones as it draws closer to the side where the light is closest (the upper left wall) and slightly lighter on the side away from the light (lower right.) Now use the sable brush, a 1/2 or 1" is fine. Make a puddle of ochre, white and umber lighter than your brick mass tones, but now so light it looks white on the canvas. With the widest surface of the brush flat on the palette draw the brush TOWARD you through the paint repeatedly, one side then the other creating a flat, sharp chisel shape. Touch the brush lightly which will make a this straight line the width of your brush (a 1" brush will leave a 1" line), a light pressure will leave a five mark. Lift the brush, move to the end of the first mark and lightly touch again. You will now have a 2" line. Repeat, frequently wiping and re-loading the brush in the described way. Make groups of parallel mortar lines. Its not important to make them all. Youre trying to get the viewer to have a 'Hey, look, its mortar! reaction, not- geese look at all those fat lines) Make a few tiny vertical "lines" of mortar color here and there, always alternating so that each vertical line splits one brick and bumps the middle of the brick below and above it. After the first application sets you can rework the entire process with more limited applications, perhaps adding an occasional fleck of lights and darks to individual bricks (lights on the upper left which hangs out from the mortar to reach the light and darks on the lower right which is shaded by the opposite effect.) Just remember, unevenness is the nature of the real thing so don't try to be precise. JGrant Painting a fully lit red brick wall with no major areas of cast shadow: Burnt Sienna, cad yellow, cad red, burnt umber, yellow ochre and white. 1/4 to 1" bristle and sable bright brushes First: assume the since a real wall's surface is handmade, ergo irregular, both as individual units (bricks) and as finaished surface (wall)its color will therefore be irregular and varied as a color "field" because each brick is slightly different and the light will strike the wall unevenly. This is good news! It saves you from the tedium of "getting it just right." Choose the direction from with light falls across the brick wall, lets say from up left at about 10 o'clock high, so to speak. Now paint the entire wall as a single midtone, brick color without trying to make the color uniformly mixed. Onto this "mass tone" loosely brush in more irregularities of lighter (tending to the yellows) and darker tones (tending to the umbers). DO NOT BEGIN BY TRYING TO PAINT INDIVIDUAL BRICKS. Try to paint what you would see if you squinted just enough to be unable to see the mortar. Make the wall slightly darker in its mass tones as it draws closer to the side where the light is closest (the upper left wall) and slightly lighter on the side away from the light (lower right.) Now use the sable brush, a 1/2 or 1" is fine. Make a puddle of ochre, white and umber lighter than your brick mass tones, but now so light it looks white on the canvas. With the widest surface of the brush flat on the palette draw the brush TOWARD you through the paint repeatedly, one side then the other creating a flat, sharp chisel shape. Touch the brush lightly which will make a this straight line the width of your brush (a 1" brush will leave a 1" line), a light pressure will leave a five mark. Lift the brush, move to the end of the first mark and lightly touch again. You will now have a 2" line. Repeat, frequently wiping and re-loading the brush in the described way. Make groups of parallel mortar lines. Its not important to make them all. Youre trying to get the viewer to have a 'Hey, look, its mortar! reaction, not- geese look at all those fat lines) Make a few tiny vertical "lines" of mortar color here and there, always alternating so that each vertical line splits one brick and bumps the middle of the brick below and above it. After the first application sets you can rework the entire process with more limited applications, perhaps adding an occasional fleck of lights and darks to individual bricks (lights on the upper left which hangs out from the mortar to reach the light and darks on the lower right which is shaded by the opposite effect.) Just remember, unevenness is the nature of the real thing so don't try to be precise. JGrant Painting a fully lit red brick wall with no major areas of cast shadow: Burnt Sienna, cad yellow, cad red, burnt umber, yellow ochre and white. 1/4 to 1" bristle and sable bright brushes First: assume the since a real wall's surface is handmade, ergo irregular, both as individual units (bricks) and as finaished surface (wall)its color will therefore be irregular and varied as a color "field" because each brick is slightly different and the light will strike the wall unevenly. This is good news! It saves you from the tedium of "getting it just right." Choose the direction from with light falls across the brick wall, lets say from up left at about 10 o'clock high, so to speak. Now paint the entire wall as a single midtone, brick color without trying to make the color uniformly mixed. Onto this "mass tone" loosely brush in more irregularities of lighter (tending to the yellows) and darker tones (tending to the umbers). DO NOT BEGIN BY TRYING TO PAINT INDIVIDUAL BRICKS. Try to paint what you would see if you squinted just enough to be unable to see the mortar. Make the wall slightly darker in its mass tones as it draws closer to the side where the light is closest (the upper left wall) and slightly lighter on the side away from the light (lower right.) Now use the sable brush, a 1/2 or 1" is fine. Make a puddle of ochre, white and umber lighter than your brick mass tones, but now so light it looks white on the canvas. With the widest surface of the brush flat on the palette draw the brush TOWARD you through the paint repeatedly, one side then the other creating a flat, sharp chisel shape. Touch the brush lightly which will make a this straight line the width of your brush (a 1" brush will leave a 1" line), a light pressure will leave a five mark. Lift the brush, move to the end of the first mark and lightly touch again. You will now have a 2" line. Repeat, frequently wiping and re-loading the brush in the described way. Make groups of parallel mortar lines. Its not important to make them all. Youre trying to get the viewer to have a 'Hey, look, its mortar! reaction, not- geese look at all those fat lines) Make a few tiny vertical "lines" of mortar color here and there, always alternating so that each vertical line splits one brick and bumps the middle of the brick below and above it. After the first application sets you can rework the entire process with more limited applications, perhaps adding an occasional fleck of lights and darks to individual bricks (lights on the upper left which hangs out from the mortar to reach the light and darks on the lower right which is shaded by the opposite effect.) Just remember, unevenness is the nature of the real thing so don't try to be precise. JGrant
Get some paint brush, a paint and a silver foil first ... Second, dip the paint brush to paint and brush it to the foil ! and i think that's how you do it ! :) wew ..
by using paint and a paint brush
i dont know make a trade
Just add water and rub it with your paint brush.
Take a paint brush, buy a can of white paint, and paint your hands and feet white-as-can-be! Happy painting!
By using silk to make bamboo and a paint brush to write.
You brush, wash, or flat iron it.
If it is necessary to paint a hair-on cowhide rug, use spray paint for fabric. If latex or oil paint is used it will make the rug stiff and sticky.
To achieve a smooth finish when using spray paint with a brush, make sure to apply thin and even coats, allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next one, and use a high-quality brush to minimize brush strokes.
with a paint brush and paint xx screen silk ink
They needed pigments, linseed oil, grindstone, muller (to make paint), a color box (to carry pigments in), and a paint brush.
at our paint store there is a small tool with a semi circle on one side and a sharp set of spikes on the other, you get the majority of the paint off with the spikes and after that a paper towl, then put the brush in a large ziplock bag that's airtight and the brush will stay soft. if you want to clean the brush to use with other paints, the orange handsoap powder that you get at a hardware store will suck the oil right off, but make sure to really rinse the soap off before you use the brush again.