When you add a light bulb, you are adding a load, which performs a function - in this case, it converts electrical energy to light and heat energy. When you add an ammeter, most of the time you intend to measure the current in the circuit, which is the function of the ammeter. Thus the two electrical components differ in their function and does different things when added to a circuit.
There is a complete path for the electricity to flow. The opposite of an open circuit. If a light switch is on and the light comes on, the circuit is closed. If the switch is turned off, the light goes off because the circuit is open.
In a series circuit, if a light bulb is missing or broken, the circuit becomes incomplete, and the electrical current cannot flow. As a result, the other bulbs in the series will not light up. All components in a series circuit must be functioning for the entire circuit to operate.
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in a series circuit current flows through each resistor or light bulb and if one item burns out the complete circuit goes dead such were the old fashioned xmas tree lights. They were wire in series and if one light burned out you had to test each light bulb til you found the one burned out to get the whole string to work again. In a parallel circuit each resistor, motor, light bulb has its own ground so if you lost one light in a circuit the rest of them continue to burn.
Dear Wiki Questioner, When you disconnect a light bulb from a series circuit, the entire circuit is broken and no electricity can flow around it... so everything else on the circuit looses access to the power source! You can think of a series circuit as a relay race, where the runners are the bulbs and wires (and anything else that is connected to the circuit). If any one of the runners in a relay race is taken out of the race (say by a sprained ankle), the relay gets stuck and the team cannot complete the race (that is to say, the electricity cannot make a complete circuit). Of course, if you plug that runner back into the system, the race continues as usual!
Since (by Kirchoff's current law) the current in a series circuit is the same at every point in the series circuit, it does not matter where you place the ammeter.
You need a Battery, Light Bulb, Ammeter, Switch.
The decrease of light intensity on an LDR will cause the resistance of the LDR to increase, which will result in a decrease in current flow through the circuit. As a result, the ammeter reading will decrease.
Independent variable: the number of cells in the circuit. Dependent variable: the current measured by the ammeter. Control variable: resistance of the resistor, type of light bulb.
Well, isn't that just a happy little question! When you add more dry cells to a circuit, the ammeter will show a higher reading because there is more current flowing through the circuit. The voltmeter reading will also increase because the total voltage of the circuit will be higher with the addition of more dry cells. Just remember to always paint with light and electricity in your circuits, my friend!
Yes. The current is inversely proportional to the resistance. I = V / R where I is current, V is voltage, and R is resistance. Adding light bulbs adds resistance. Current is constant throughout a series circuit; it doesn't change no matter what. Voltage changes.
Adding more batteries increases the voltage across the circuit, which results in a higher current flowing through the light bulb. The increased current generates more heat and light in the bulb, making it appear brighter.
the heated rear screen circuit has a higher resistance compared to the side light circuit
You need a Battery, Light Bulb, Ammeter, Switch.
No. In a parallel circuit, the resistance gets cut in half, so logically the bulbs would do the opposite and get brighter.
Parallel.
There are some applications where using an ammeter is the only way to troubleshoot a problem without tearing apart the entire circuit. It is the only meter setting on the DMM used while the circuit is energized. After calculating the amperage that should flow through the circuit by measuring ohms and volts, an ammeter directly shows any "tell tale" discrepancies between calculated amps and actual amps. Example: In theatre lighting, a volt meter reads 110V on a power circuit, and an ohmmeter reads close to 0 when measuring across a lamp's power connector leads; yet, when connected, the lamp won't light and the breaker doesn't trip. In theory, 110V across a lamp reading 0 ohms should light the lamp. A quick bit of minor surgury and a measure with the ammeter "tells the tale" that very little current is flowing; therefore, one of the digital dimmer packs has probably gone bad -- it will provide a phantom power of 110V with little current. Without the ammeter, one would have to waste time troubleshooting the dimmer itself.