Using sanded grout instead of tile mortar can lead to several issues. Sanded grout is designed for filling joints between tiles rather than adhering tiles to a substrate, which can result in poor bond strength and instability of the tiles. This may cause tiles to crack, shift, or come loose over time. It's essential to use the appropriate materials for their intended purposes to ensure a durable and long-lasting installation.
Most often, sanded grout is used for floor tiles because the grout lines are usually greater than 1/8" wide. Sanded grout is necessary for the wider lines to give added strength, and to keep your grout from cracking and chipping out. Unsanded grout must be used if your grout lines are narrower than 1/8", because the grains of sand in sanded grout could cause air pockets and prevent good adhesion to your tiles - and it will crack and chip out as well. Sanded and unsanded grouts are cement-based. One alternative grout on the market is epoxy-based. It is neither sanded nor unsanded, but will work fine in either narrow or wider grout lines. If your grout lines are wider than 1/2", or if you are using saltillo tiles, you must use saltillo grout. Other grouts will not handle this wider width.
You need a float brush and grout. You want to make sure you have the right kind of grout. For example, you might want a sanded grout for larger grout spaces. Apply the grout with the float at a 45 degree angle, wiping as much off as you go. After it sets, use a sponge to wipe the haze from the tiles.
Mixing grout and mortar together is not recommended, as they serve different purposes and have different properties. Mortar is designed for bonding masonry units like bricks and stones, while grout is used to fill gaps and provide support in tile installations. Combining them can compromise the strength and flexibility needed for each application, leading to potential issues down the line. It's best to use them as intended for optimal results.
White mortar is the same as gray except it has been bleached. White thinset is needed if you are using a light tile with light grout.
Nope, Mortar & Cement (Thinset) are two different types of setting materials & respond differently to stress & compression.
The obvious answer is sanded grout has sand. But the in depth answer has many differences. Sanded grout which is the most common, can be used in a grout joint from 1/8" to 1/2" (and larger but check the grout). Sanded grout scratches many tile like glass. Non sanded grout can only be used on joints 1/8" or less. Non sanded grout is typically seen on marble and granite tile, many wall tile, and all glass tile.
No, unsanded mortar is not recommended for grouting a pool. It lacks the necessary strength and durability required to withstand the effects of water and pool chemicals. Instead, use a sanded grout specifically formulated for wet environments, as it provides better adhesion and resistance to cracking. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the best results.
You should use the grout that will work best for the biggest grout space that you need. So for a grout width like you described, 1/16 to 1/2, you should use sanded grout. Unsanded grout will look terrible in a 1/2" grout joint, but sanded grout will look great in both. Use sanded.
Non Sanded grout can be used in any size grout joint but is ideal in smaller joints usually up to 1/4" The main draw back to using unsanded grout in larger joints is that it may crack over time. If you are unwilling to remove all the grout and use a sanded grout, it is best to make sure the grout is cured and sealed properly to limit and minimize cracking.
if your grout line is less than 1/4" you use smooth grout, above that you use sanded grout.
Most often, sanded grout is used for floor tiles because the grout lines are usually greater than 1/8" wide. Sanded grout is necessary for the wider lines to give added strength, and to keep your grout from cracking and chipping out. Unsanded grout must be used if your grout lines are narrower than 1/8", because the grains of sand in sanded grout could cause air pockets and prevent good adhesion to your tiles - and it will crack and chip out as well. Sanded and unsanded grouts are cement-based. One alternative grout on the market is epoxy-based. It is neither sanded nor unsanded, but will work fine in either narrow or wider grout lines. If your grout lines are wider than 1/2", or if you are using saltillo tiles, you must use saltillo grout. Other grouts will not handle this wider width.
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Chalkboard paint is fairly easy to make. It takes 1 part non sanded grout to 8 parts paint. Non sanded grout is available at any home improvement store.
Concrete generally has larger aggregate than mortar.
Since there are many features of grout, this will depend on your question. There are epoxy grouts and latex modified grout. Epoxy grout is very stain resistance. The problem lies in that epoxy grouts are hard for a novice to use. Latex modified thin-sets are durable when used correctly. Additionally, you need to make sure you buy sanded or non sanded grout depending on the size of the grout joint and type of tile. If you have many natural stones, glass tile, or a tile with a great deal of shine, you will need a non sanded grout. Many bathrooms need this regardless, because their grout joint is 1/8" or less. All joints larger than 1/8" require sanded grout. This means you must be cautious before you begin, you place your joints correctly for the style tile you have.
It is somewhat painstaking. There is a grout removal tool available at most big box hardware stores. It is basically a handsaw that uses hardened aggregate applied to the blade instead of teeth. You have to shave each joint down to a level below the surface that a new grout can be applied to and adhere (about 1/8" for non-sanded grout and 1/4" for sanded grout). If you are changing grout colors, you will want to use an acid (muriatic acid) to wash down the joint edges to remove any small amounts of the old grout at the surface edge that remain, prior to new grout installation. Because you are not installing the new grout to the full tile depth, it is advisable to use a latex additive to prevent cracking.
It is somewhat painstaking. There is a grout removal tool available at most big box hardware stores. It is basically a handsaw that uses hardened aggregate applied to the blade instead of teeth. You have to shave each joint down to a level below the surface that a new grout can be applied to and adhere (about 1/8" for non-sanded grout and 1/4" for sanded grout). If you are changing grout colors, you will want to use an acid (muriatic acid) to wash down the joint edges to remove any small amounts of the old grout at the surface edge that remain, prior to new grout installation. Because you are not installing the new grout to the full tile depth, it is advisable to use a latex additive to prevent cracking.