The purpose of a bike cogset is to provide different gear ratios for the rider to choose from, allowing them to adjust the resistance and speed of pedaling. The cogset affects the performance of a bicycle by determining how easily the rider can pedal uphill, maintain speed on flat terrain, or accelerate quickly. A well-chosen cogset can enhance the efficiency and comfort of riding a bike.
for full suspension MTB: fork, wheels, spokes, skewers, hubs, tires, headset, stem, bar, grips, brake levers, shifters, brake cables, shifter cables, frame, seatpost, saddle, shock, swinglink, cogset/casette, crank, pedals, chain, rear derailleur, front derailleur, brakes (v or disc)... there can also be , chain guide. some parts contain many more internal parts such as the fork and shifters.
Bike clutches, primarily found in mountain bikes and some other types of bicycles, help to manage chain tension and prevent chain slap during rough terrain or descents. They function by using a mechanism that applies tension to the rear derailleur, keeping the chain engaged and close to the cogset. This reduces the risk of the chain bouncing off or becoming derailed, enhancing control and stability. The clutch can often be engaged or disengaged, allowing for easier wheel removal or maintenance.
Freehub. When gearing inevitably wears out, with the freehub you only change out the gears (cogs or cogset). With the freewheel you replace the entire assembly, including the ratcheting mechanism and bearings. OTOH freewheel assemblies can be found rather cheap, so the economy of of it isn't that clear-cut. A more definite reason is that freewheels leave more of the axle unsupported, (the bearing is located closer to the centre of the hub) which makes freewheel wheels more prone to broken and bent axles if you want to run 7-8 speeds.
Yes. You can either swap out the rings on the cassette (also called cog set or cogset), which can be difficult, or you can change out the entire cassette. As you might guess, there are some issues with the modification. In changing out some cogs, you won't have to change cassettes or derailleurs or anything else. Just be sure you have the correct chain length for the new setup. This is a fairly simple and straight forward modification, though removing and tearing down a cassette to change cogs requires some tools. Not the least of those tools is the chain whip to remove the cassette, but you might subcontract that work to a bike shop. Note that the individual gears might get expensive; replacing two or three might cost as much as a whole new cassette. There are some considerations that must be made when swapping out a cassette. First, if you're adding one with more gears, you'll have to insure your wheel (the hub, actually) will accept the new cassette. Some are threaded and some are splined. Second, you'll have to insure you have enough room between the rear dropouts. Lastly, you need to be aware of which cassette you're planning to install because some of them require that you put on a new, narrower chain to use them. The suggestions regarding the cassette swap set aside the issue you'll have replacing the derailleur and shifter. In general, everyone knows you can't shift through 9 cogs with a 5-speed shifter. A new derailleur and shifter can make things expensive. Is it possible that the old "non-indexing" shifter can make a comeback on your bike? Is a retrofit in order? Think this through and do some more reading before diving in. A bike shop is often willing to work with you to up your knowledge of the whys and wherefores of these two-wheeled machines. Use the link below to Sheldon Brown's site. He's one scary hard core bike guy, and he can teach you a thing or two about the technical issues.